The most dangerous mountain in the world. The most dangerous mountains to climb

Mountains have always challenged man, beckoned him and teased him with their inaccessibility. And, tragic as it may be, not all of those who accept this challenge and go to conquer the peaks later return back. Some remain captives of the mountains forever, warning those who will follow in their footsteps. In honor of the release of the film “Everest” in Russian distribution, we present to you ten deadly peaks, the conquest of which turns into a real Russian roulette.

Annapurna
Location: Nepal. Himalayas
Height: 8,091 m
Annapurna is best described by the words of the American mountaineer Ed Vitus: “Annapurna is one continuous danger, completely covered with ice. One large piece of ice with ice buildup on it. And the question is which way the next growth will turn, forward or backward.” Annapurna is rightfully considered one of the most dangerous mountains. About 40% of climbers who tried to conquer it remain lying on its slopes.

Everest
Location: Nepal, China. Himalayas
Height: 8,848 m
Everest is a modern Golgotha. Anyone who plucks up the courage and decides to climb the mountain breathing the cold of the grave knows that the chance to return may not come.
Of the more than 7 thousand who climbed Everest, about 250 people are officially considered dead. In percentage terms, this figure is not so large, but the statistics cease to reassure and turn into a waking nightmare when you rise and see the bodies of those who also believed in their invulnerability.

Mont Blanc
Location: France, Italy. Alps
Altitude: 4,695 m
Mont Blanc or the White Mountain is the highest massif in the mountain range and the highest peak in Europe. Among climbers, Mont Blanc is not considered particularly dangerous to climb, but due to some sinister irony of fate, it breaks records for mortality. Over the history of ascents, which spans more than two centuries, the slopes of the White Mountain have claimed the lives of several thousand climbers - a figure that even Everest is far from matching.

Nanga Parbat
Location: Pakistan. Himalayas
Height: 8,126 m
Before Everest gained its popularity among climbers, it was Nanga Parbat that ranked first in the number of climbers who died on its slopes. For which it received the nickname Killer Mountain. In 1953, trying to reach its top, 62 people died at once. Since then, apparently, the mountain has quenched its thirst for blood. To date, mortality has decreased significantly - to 5.5%.

Kanchenjunga
Location: Nepal, India. Himalayas
Height: 8,586 m
This is the third highest mountain in the world. Kanchenjunga is a mountaineer's nightmare, as the weather is always inclement and avalanches occur every now and then. Only 190 daredevils managed to climb to the top of Kanchenjunga, and the mortality rate among climbers here reaches 22%.

K2
Location: Pakistan, China. Himalayas
Height: 8,614 m
Mount K2 or Chogori provides the most extreme conditions for climbing. This mountain knows no mercy and does not forgive mistakes - every fourth climber who tries to reach its summit dies. In winter, climbing is not at all possible. Our compatriots made their contribution to the history of ascents to K2. On August 21, 2007, Russian climbers managed to climb the most difficult route, along the western slope of the peak, which until that time was considered impassable.

Eigar
Location: Switzerland, Alps
Altitude: 3970 m
Eigar is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world, despite its low altitude. He is often also called the “Man-Eater”. The biggest challenges for climbers are the incredibly large elevation changes and constantly changing weather. Over the course of a century and a half of ascents, the peak claimed the lives of 65 people.

Fitzroy
Location: Argentina, Chile. Patagonia
Height: 3,359 m
This majestic granite peak is both the most unvisited and one of the most dangerous mountain peaks. On average, only one successful ascent occurs here per year. The climber faces two problems at once: firstly, to get to the top you need to overcome a steep section of rock 600 meters high, and secondly, inclement weather, which can last for weeks, can completely discourage any desire to climb the rocks. In addition, you can only climb Fitzroy between December and February - the summer months in the southern hemisphere.

The mountains have long attracted brave people with their inaccessibility, as if they were challenging them, and they never forgot to take their share - not all conquerors of the peaks were able to return home. Many remained forever captives of the silent giants - a good warning for those who follow in their footsteps. Every year, dozens of people die in the mountains as a result of avalanches, landslides, blowing winds and severe snowstorms. Perhaps this is nature’s way of expressing its reluctance for people to disturb its stone giants. But this does not mean that there are fewer people striving to reach the next peak. This article lists the most dangerous mountains to climb, with the percentage of fatalities when conquered in parentheses.

1. Annapurna (34%)

• Height 8091 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The American climber Ed Viesturs described the character of this peak very colorfully, calling it completely covered with ice, a permanent danger, a single piece of ice with ice growths. Annapurna is probably the most dangerous peak in the world. More than a third of the climbers who tried to conquer it find eternal peace on its slopes.
Annapurna became the first eight-thousand-meter mountain to be conquered by man. This was done in 1950 by French climbers Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog. The descent from its summit took them 14 days, and as a result of frostbite, both lost their toes, and Herzog also suffered frostbite on his hands. This ascent is considered by climbers to be the most outstanding in history. After them, another 130 people had the courage to climb Annapurna.
It has no equal in the number of dangers that await climbers. In 2014, a terrible tragedy occurred here - 39 climbers were first caught in a snowstorm, and then in a series of avalanches; no one survived.

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2. Chogori (K2) (29%)

• Height 8614 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan, China).

The highest peak of the Karakoram and the second in the world, Chogori or K2 is slightly second only to Everest. This peak rises on the China-Pakistan border. In terms of the danger for climbing, it was far ahead of Chomolungma, second only to Annapurna. Even the simplest climbing routes along it contain sheer cliffs and overhanging pillars and blocks of glaciers. Due to the technical difficulties of climbing, every fourth climber who tries to conquer Chogori dies.
Most often, climbers storm the peak from the Pakistani side, although there is also a bottleneck where an avalanche can occur at any moment. In winter, conquering K2 is considered impossible. In 2007, Russian climbers were able to climb K2 along the most difficult route - along the western slope, which until now was considered impregnable.

3. Nanga Parbat (21%)

• Height 8126 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan).

Until climbers chose Everest for climbing, it was Nanga Parbat that was the deadliest peak, for which it was even nicknamed the killer mountain. It is located in the northwestern Himalayas. You can reach its top only along a very narrow ridge, and the southern side, with a height of 4600 m, is the highest slope in the world. Nanga Parbat was first conquered by Hermann Buhl in 1953. He walked for 40 hours without an oxygen mask or an ice ax. Since then, 263 people have been to this peak, and 62 have not returned. But the extreme difficulty of the climb only attracts extreme sports enthusiasts, especially many who want to compete with the inaccessible southern slope.

4. Dhaulagiri I (16%)

• Height 8167 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

This is the seventh highest peak in the world. Even experienced climbers often get lost on it. The southern slope of Dhaulagiri I still remains inaccessible - among climbers, climbing it is equated to suicide. The local avalanches are the most dangerous for climbers. This peak was the penultimate eight-thousander to be conquered by people. The first to climb it was a group of Swiss and Austrian climbers with two Sherpas. Later, a group of American climbers who had no experience in Himalayan ascents attempted to storm the peak from an unexplored side. A powerful avalanche took away 6 climbers and two Sherpas. This was the worst tragedy in the mountains of Nepal at that time.

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5. Kanchenjunga (15%)

• Height 8586 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (India, Nepal).

The name Kanchenjunga translates as “mountain of five treasures”. This is the third highest peak in the world. Climbers managed to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga for the first time after half a century of unsuccessful attempts in 1955. There are no established routes or trails. Inclement weather and frequent avalanches make the ascent even more difficult. So far, only 187 people can boast of being at the top of Kanchenjunga. Almost every new ascent claims the lives of climbers.

6. Manaslu (Kutang) (10%)

• Height 8156 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The multi-headed Mount Kutang (“Mountain of Spirits”) occupies the eighth position in the list of eight-thousanders in the world. Climbers preparing to conquer its main peak must be prepared not only for the usual dangers that await them - avalanches, but also for unexpected monsoons and mudflows. Manaslu was first conquered by Japanese climbers in 1956. This ascent remained the only successful one for a long time, until in 1971 another group of Japanese climbers reached the summit.
The threat of avalanches and technical difficulties during ascent are somewhat less noticeable than during descent. One of the worst tragedies in the history of mountaineering occurred here, when five Korean climbers and 10 local Sherpas died on the route from a huge avalanche, which demolished the intermediate camp located at around 6500 m.

7. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (9%)

• Height 8080 m.
• Located in Karakoram (Pakistan).

The name Gasherbrum means “beautiful mountain”. The fact that significantly fewer people die on this “beautiful mountain” than on the peaks listed above is explained by the fact that only the most desperate and experienced climbers think about conquering it. It was called “Hidden” because when approaching it along the main route, the mountain is not visible for a long time due to powerful spurs.
This peak was first conquered by a group of 8 Americans in 1958. The first to reach the summit, Piet Schoening and Andy Kaufman, communicated their success to their comrades below using mirrors. The legendary Reinhold Messner also climbed Gasherbrum I, and did it in alpine style - without an intermediate camp, oxygen mask or additional equipment. He was accompanied by Hans Kammerlander - this couple crossed two eight-thousandth peaks at once during one trip. That is, they were able to conquer Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II in just eight days.

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8. Makalu (9%)

• Height 8485 m.

The very long path to the fifth peak of the world, Makalu (“black giant”), contains danger, although this is only a prelude to the difficult ascent to the peak itself. This is one of the most difficult peaks to climb. Here, as well as when climbing K2, the most dangerous part is the descent, during which most of the deaths occur. In particular, the shape of the mountain leads to such fatality - a tetrahedral pyramid with very steep slopes, on which storms and avalanches often occur. Brave climbers Denis Urubko and Simon Moreau were able to climb this already deadly peak in winter. They had to endure wind gusts of up to 120 km/h and forty-degree frosts - such conditions can kill on their own without any ascent.

9. Chomolungma (Everest) (6.74%)

• Height 8848 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal, China).

And here is the highest peak of our planet. This fact, as well as the relative ease of conquering, made this peak the most attractive for climbers among climbers from all over the world. At some point, thanks to the efforts of technical staff and Sherpas, the route to climbing Everest became as comfortable as possible, which gave rise to an entire industry around conquering the “roof of the world.” Even inexperienced climbers were allowed to climb. Since Hillary first conquered Everest, over 7,000 people have reached the top of the “roof of the world.” Of these, about 250 remained on its snow-covered slopes, reminding with their presence the next daredevils climbing up that Chomolungma does not like jokes. Not long ago, a strong earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 occurred in Nepal, which cooled down some hotheads. Then many avalanches descended from Everest, taking with them dozens of Sherpas and climbers.
Many climbers are familiar with the local landmark - “green boots”. This is the corpse of the Indian rock climber Tsewang Paljor, who died once during a climb and turned into a frozen landmark, which eloquently reminds all future climbers that the beauty of climbing must be paid dearly.

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10. Mont Blanc

• Height 4810 m.
• Located in the Alps (France, Italy).

Although Mont Blanc (“ white mountain") and almost half the height of the Himalayan eight-thousanders, but it is the highest peak Western Europe, inferior to the highest peaks of the Caucasus. It is an integral part of the crystalline mountain range on which popular ski resorts Courmayeur and Chamonix. From a technical point of view, the climb to Mont Blanc is not too difficult, but deaths occur here almost every year, as frequent avalanches and bad weather conditions take their toll. In 1741, the Englishmen Richard Pocock and William Wyndham first climbed the neighboring peak of Montenvieux, and Mont Blanc itself was conquered in 1786 by the French Jacques Balmet and Michel Paccard.

It is difficult to calculate the exact number of climbs to the most popular peaks in the world.
However, mountainplanet.com was able to study various analyzes and statistics provided by national parks, customs, control and rescue services, climbing and mountaineering federations, and experts in order to present more or less verified statistics.

However, there are factors that influence the final statistics:

• In some national parks registration is voluntary;
• sometimes national parks are unable to produce statistical reports on daily life and we at mountainplanet.com have to rely on alternative sources: reports from the Ministry of Tourism, reports from Customs, emergency services, etc. in order to get the full picture;
• Typically, statistics do not indicate which climbs were recreational and commercial. For this reason, it is quite difficult to determine how many of the total ascents were made with guides.

There are basically two main factors that can make some mountains a popular destination for climbers. The first is accessibility and infrastructure, which facilitates the logistics and preparation process. The second distinguishing feature is the height, location, shape, glaciers, etc. And also the personality of the mountain, which can attract the attention of adventurers.

Some of the most popular climbing routes, such as Fuji, Mount Kosciuszko, Sinai, Machu Picchu or Breithorn are not included in our list because climbing these peaks does not require the services of a mountain guide.

10. Matterhorn

Country: Italy / Switzerland;
Mountain system: Pennine Alps;
Height: 4,478 m / 14,692 ft;
Ascents per year: about 500;
average cost excursion tour: US$2,800;
Number of climbers: about 3,000;

Mount Matterhorn is a legendary mountain in the Alps with a unique and amazingly perfect pyramidal peak. Clearly, the Matterhorn may be the most visually appealing mountain on the current list.
His stunning images have long captivated adventurers and climbers for many decades. Regardless of its beauty, it would be wrong to assume that climbing the Matterhorn is easy. Steep slopes and unpredictable weather changes have claimed nearly 500 lives since 1865.
Access to international airports and excellent infrastructure have made the Matterhorn one of the most preferred options for climbers around the world.

Country: Mexico;
Mountain system: Neovolcanic Cordillera;
Height: 5,636 m / 18,490 ft;
Ascents per year: about 1,000;
Average tour cost: $1,300;
Number of climbers: almost 2,000;

Orizaba-sama high mountain in Mexico, as well as one of the peaks of the “7 Volcanoes” program. These factors make Mount Orizaba one of the most desirable for climbers. Mount Orizaba rises above the Gulf of Mexico with a magnificent snow-capped peak and glaciers flowing down the slopes. Climbing Mount Orizaba is an excellent choice for those who want to experience climbing a large mountain glacier before moving to higher altitudes.

Country Russia;
Mountain system: Central Caucasus;
Altitude: 5,642 m / 18,511 ft;
Ascents per year: almost 2,000;
Average tour cost: $800 USD;
Number of climbers: almost 10,000;

Mount Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe, is often mistakenly viewed as being easily accessible. Climbing Elbrus has always been a challenge. During the assault, climbers must contend with a vertical climb of 2,000 meters. The journey can become extremely tiring; there have been cases when exhausted climbers, descending from the top in bad weather, disappeared into the icy labyrinth. Every year Elbrus claims an average of 10 lives.

Country: Nepal;
Mountain system: Himalayas;
Height: 6,165 m / 20,226 ft;
Ascents per year: about 2,200;
Average
tour cost: 3,000 USD E.;
Total number of climbers: about 2,700;

Island Peak is one of the most popular places in the Himalayas. It offers an unforgettable and fabulous trip to the Everest region with Everest Base Camp Trek. The entire expedition can take up to 16 days. Island Peak may not be among the Himalayan giants, however, it requires technical skills and the right climbing equipment: crampons, rope, etc.

Country: Argentina;
Mountain system: Patagonian Andes;
Height: 6,962 m / 22,831 ft;
Ascents per year: almost 4,000;
Average tour cost: $3,500;
Number of climbers: almost 4,500;

Mount Aconcagua is the highest mountain in South America and one of the legendary 7 Summits. This is the only peak in the world with an altitude of almost 7000 meters, which can be a solution for those who have never had mountaineering experience before. Despite this fact, it is highly recommended to climb Aconcagua with a knowledgeable mountain guide in order to avoid possible risks and increase the chances of a successful climb.

Country: Ecuador;
Mountain system: Eastern Cordillera;
Height: 5,897 m / 19,347 ft;
Ascents per year: 4,500;
Average cost of tour: 1 $000 US dollars;
Number of climbers: almost 5,000;

Ecuador has always been something of a mecca for adventure seekers and mountain lovers from all over the world. The country's landscape offers many amazingly beautiful mountains and volcanoes, most of which can be climbed in one or two days. One of them is Mount Cotopaxi - the second highest peak in Ecuador and the highest active volcano in the world. Climbing to the top of Cotopaxi is not considered technically difficult, but there are some threats such as hidden crevasses in the glacier and steep snow slopes.
Although climbing Cotopaxi is prohibited due to seismic activity in the area, it is considered one of the most sought after.

Country: USA;
System: Cascade Mountains;
Height: 4,392 m / 14,410 ft;
Ascents per year: about 7,500;
Average tour cost: $1,400;
Number of climbers: about 13,000;

Mount Rainier is one of the most popular climbs in the United States. There are several reasons for this. First, Rainier is located in the neighboring Seattle area of ​​approximately 3.7 million people, making Rainier one of the most affordable locations in its class. Second, Rainier serves as a training ground for American climbers, providing them with breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding mountains, alpine meadows and snow-capped peaks.

Country: France / Italy;
Mountain system: Graian Alps;
Height: 4,810 m / 15,781 ft;
Ascents per year: almost 10,000;
Average tour cost: $2,300;
Number of climbers: about 30,000;

Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the Alps and has a reputation as a merciless killer with 1,800 deaths to its name. Unlike legendary climbing spots in Alaska, the Himalayas or the Andes, local authorities do not require any permission to climb Mont Blanc. The death toll is growing every year, and lately there have been serious discussions about whether the idea of ​​unlimited access to Mont Blanc is a good idea. So what makes Mont Blanc so popular among climbers?
Firstly, the historical heritage of the international mountaineering community. Mont Blanc is considered the birthplace of modern mountaineering.
Secondly, excellent infrastructure and accessibility to European cultural and historical attractions. You need to remember before climbing Mont Blanc: it is a mistake to consider the climb as a simple trek, in reality it is still real mountaineering.

Country: Tanzania;
Mountain system: East African Plateau;
Height: 5,895 m / 19,341 ft;
Ascents per year: about 35,000;
Average tour cost: $3,000;
Number of climbers: about 35,000;

Mount Kilimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa and the highest free-standing mountain on Earth. It is also included in the 7 Summits and 7 Volcanoes programs, which makes it one of the most popular. The summit of Mount Kilimanjaro is quite achievable for tourists and travelers with average physical fitness. Nowhere else on Earth can you climb a mountain this high without cats. Besides this, lovers active rest can combine climbing Kilimanjaro with famous safaris in national parks and visits to Zanzibar. These factors make Mount Kilimanjaro one of the most preferred options in the adventure market.

Country: Nepal;
Mountain system: Himalayas;
Height: 5,643 m / 18,514 ft;
Ascents per year: about 40,000;
Average tour cost: $700 USD;
Number of climbers: about 40,000;

This may come as a surprise to many mountain enthusiasts. Why Kala Patthar? Mount Kilimanjaro or Mont Blanc seem much more deserving of being at the top of the list. But the statistics speak for themselves. Tens of thousands of climbers climb to the top of Kala Patthar every year.
Much of its popularity comes from the fact that it is the final destination on the route to Everest Base Camp. For this reason, climbing Kala Patthar has become one of the most desired adventures for thousands of outdoor enthusiasts. It provides climbers with the most accessible view of the tallest mountain on Earth.
40,000 people climb it every year. Most of the ascents are carried out with the assistance of local mountain guides.

]. Much fewer can name at least five of them and only a few know everything [confirmation of the proverb “It is better to be the first guy in the village than the second in the city,” where the city is the Himalayas and Karakoram, and the village is everything else].

Chomolungma(Everest, Sagarmatha) - 8848 meters* ( * - above sea level; data on mountain heights may vary slightly from different sources)
The first ascent was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary. The most famous of the eight-thousand-meter mountains, the others are much inferior to it in popularity. “Chomolungma” - from Tibetan means “Divine”; "Sagarmatha" means "Mother of the Gods" in Nepali. The classic name is given in honor of George Everest, who first suggested that it was the highest mountain in the world. But the Indian mathematician Radhanat Sikdar substantiated the words of Everest in 1852.

(K2, Dapsang, Godwin-Osten) - 8611 meters
The first to reach the summit was the Italian expedition of 1954 (Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni as part of the Ardito Desio expedition). At first, the technical name K2 was assigned to the mountain (K1 - Masherbrum, K3 - Broad Peak, K4 and K5 - Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I, respectively). Climbing K2 is one of the most difficult; the mortality rate during ascents is very high.

8586 meters
Joe Brown and George Bend, members of the English expedition led by Charles Evans, first reached the main peak on May 25, 1955. The name translates as “five treasures of the great snows”, since the mountain has five peaks. There is a legend that this mountain “kills” all women who try to conquer it (although there are successful ascents).

8516 meters
The mountain is located three kilometers south of Everest. On May 18, 1956, the first ascent of Lhotse was made by the Swiss Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. Despite the “ease” for climbing, it was here that Jerzy Kukuczka, the No. 2 climber of all time, who conquered all eight-thousanders in just 8 years, died.

8481 meters
Conquered in 1955 by a French expedition led by J. Franco (9 people, the first were Jean Cousy and Lionel Terray). For a long time it remained in the shadow of its more famous neighbors.

8167 meters
IN early XIX century was considered the highest peak in the world, but climbers turned their attention to it only in the early 50s of the last century. The mountain was first conquered in 1960 by a team based on a Swiss expedition (Dimberger, Diener, Shelbert, Forer, Nawang and Nyima).

8201 meters
Climbers consider Cho Oyu to be the easiest eight-thousander [and it is no coincidence - statistics say that the fewest climbers die there]. It was first conquered by an Austrian expedition on October 19, 1954, consisting of Joseph Joechler, Herbert Tichy and Pasang Dawa Lama Sherpa.

8156 meters
The summit was first conquered by Japanese Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gualzen Norbu on May 9, 1956. In 1972, an entire expedition of 16 Korean climbers perished here.

(Diamir) - 8126 meters
The first attempt to conquer it was made by the best British climber of his time, Albert Frederick Mummery, back in 1895. This was the first attempt to storm the eight-thousander, which, unfortunately, ended in tragedy. At an altitude of 6400 meters, a rock climber died in an avalanche. In general, many tragedies happen here during ascents - according to statistics, only Annapurna and Chogori have worse statistics. The pioneer here was the German Hermann Buhl (1953) alone - this is a unique case. Here, in 1970, Reinhold Messner also made his first ascent, but lost his brother Gunther during the descent (his body was found only in 2005) and lost seven toes.

8091 meters
This is the first eight-thousander climbed by man (the French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal climbed it on June 3, 1950). But at the same time it is also the most dangerous of all: here is the highest mortality rate and the smallest number of successful ascents.

(Gasherbrum 1, K5) - 8068 meters
It was first conquered by Americans Peter Schoening and Andrew Kaufman in 1958.

(K3) - 8047 meters
Located near Chogori (K2). First conquered by the Austrian expedition (Herman Buhl (the one who climbed Nanga Parbat alone), Kurt Diemberger, Markus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller).

(K4) - 8035 meters
The Austrians also succeeded here (Fritz Moravec, Hans Willenpart, Sepp Larch) - in July 1956. In winter, no one conquered the mountain.

(Grossanzanfeng, Gossainan) - 8027 meters
Despite the fact that this is the “smallest” mountain of the 14 highest, it was first conquered much later than the others - in 1964 (Chinese expedition - Hsu Ching, Chang Chun-Yen, Wang Fu-Zhu, Chen Sam, Cheng Tien-Liang , Wu Tsung-Yu, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten).

I hope you enjoyed my story. If you suddenly decide to get into the "14x8000" club, think several times: it is not only very beautiful and exciting, but also deadly.

In the list below I have selected the most beautiful and interesting peaks for climbing. When compiling the list, I tried to cover the most interesting areas of our planet, but for each area I chose fairly accessible, technically uncomplicated mountain peaks that are accessible to the majority mountain tourists, familiar with basic mountain movement skills. The peaks are grouped by altitude, starting with mountains just over 2000 meters high and ending at 8000+.

Peaks 2000+

Petros (2020 m)

In the Carpathians, everyone knows the highest peak of Ukraine - Hoverla, but right opposite there is a less visited, but equally interesting peak of the Carpathians.

Best time: June-September
Days for trekking/climbing: 1-3
Difficulty: trekking

Triglav (2864 m)

The highest peak and national symbol of Slovenia. Located in the Julian Alps.

Days to climb: 1-2
Difficulty of the simplest route: walking, scrambling (~1B)

Zugspitze (2962 m)

The highest point in Germany. Can be combined with a very beautiful three or four day hike in the surrounding area.

A story about climbing the Zugspitze in July 2016.

Peaks 3000+

Sugar Pseashkho (3189 m)

A beautiful and most accessible trekking three-thousand-meter peak in the Western Caucasus in the vicinity of Krasnaya Polyana.
Days for trekking/climbing: 2-3
Difficulty: trekking

A story about climbing Sugar Pseashkho in June 2012.

Agepsta (3256 m)

The most spectacular peak over 3000 meters high is in Krasnaya Polyana. Dream! The peak is located directly on the borders of Russia and Abkhazia and a border pass is required to climb from Krasnaya Polyana. It’s easier to climb from Abkhazia.
Days for trekking/climbing: 3-4

Difficulty: 1A

Best time: June - September

A story about climbing Agepsta in July 2017.

Munku-Sardyk (3491 m)

The highest peak of the Sayan Mountains, on the very border with Mongolia.

Best time: July-August

Semenov-Bashi (3602 m)

An easy (1B grade), but already quite high trekking peak in the vicinity of the Alibek alpine camp on Dombay

Teide Volcano (3718 m)

Volcano on the island of Tenerife ( Canary Islands). The highest peak in Spain.

Best time: April-May, September-October
Duration: 1+ days
Difficulty: n/a

Mount Cook (3754 m)

New Zealand's highest peak, south island.

Fuji (3776 m)

Volcano, the highest peak in Japan. A must-see during your trip to the land of the rising sun!

Grossglockner (3798 m)

The highest peak in Austria.

Once I already managed to walk at its foot, but not at the top yet :)

Ak-Oyuk (3860 m)

A beautiful peak in the Katunsky ridge of the Altai Mountains not far from the majestic Belukha. The beginning of the route is directly from Lake Akkem.

The easiest route: 2A-2B

Belalakaya (3861 m)

Our answer to the Swiss Matterhorn and the calling card of Dombay. Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful (if not the most beautiful) peaks of the Caucasus. Unfortunately, even the simplest route has category 3A, i.e. requires mastery of all mountaineering skills.

Peaks 4000+

Aktru (4075 m)

The peak in Altai is 4075 meters high and there is a mountain camp of the same name, which operates even in our time.

Best time: July-August
Difficulty: 1B

Breithorn (4167 m)

One of the easiest four thousand meters in the Alps. The route starts from the cable car station "Klein Matterhorn" (Little Matterhorn) in the Zermatt Valley (Switzerland) at an altitude of 3884 m. The steepest section on the route is 35 degrees.

Difficulty: F+ on the alpine scale - a simple, easy route. Climbing on rocks or gentle snow, moving on simple glaciers. As a rule, movement without a rope except for movement on glaciers.

Best time: all year round. Great mountain for ski touring!

A beautiful and accessible peak with an ice cap in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in close proximity to Almaty is an excellent opportunity to get acquainted with the Northern Tien Shan and for the first time climb peaks over 4000 meters high.

Best time: July-August
Days to climb: 1
Difficulty: 1B

Description of the route and my photo story about the hike along the Trans-Ili Alatau in July 2008.

Rainier (4392 m)

Perhaps, after the Matterhorn, this is the most photographed mountain in the world. We bet your mother or grandmother has a calendar with her image? In general, the mountain is famous not only for its postcard views, but also for its extremely changeable weather!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 3A

Matterhorn (4478 m)

An icon of the Swiss Alps, and perhaps the Alps in general!

Belukha (4506 m)

The highest peak of Altai and all of Siberia!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 3A

Mont Blanc (4807 m)

The highest peak of the Alps and without a doubt an iconic, historical peak.

Best time: July-August
Climbing days: 5-7
Difficulty: 2A

My story about the ascent in the summer of 2011.

Peaks 5000+

Kazbek (5047 m)

Over the past few years, Georgia, and Kazbek in particular, have been experiencing a real boom in popularity!

Best time: July-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 2B

Ararat (5137 m)

Perhaps Ararat is the simplest accessible mountain with a height of more than 5000 meters. If you want to test yourself “at altitude,” then without a doubt Ararat and Elbrus (more on that below) are the two best options. Despite the fact that Ararat is a symbol of Armenia, geographically the peak is located in Turkey.

Best time:
Duration: 5+ days
Difficulty: 1B

Chimtarga (5489 m)

The highest peak of the Fan Mountains in Tajikistan. One of the popular areas for mountain tourism and climbing. The alpine camp is active and there are guides.

Best time: June-August
Duration: 10+ days
Difficulty: 2B

Kala Pathar (5550 m)

The highest peak accessible for climbing during the Everest Base Camp trek. Apart from the height, there are no technical difficulties. A down jacket and trekking boots are all the equipment you need to admire the coolest view of Everest, as in the photo on the left!

Best time: April-May, October-November
Days for trekking/climbing: 15
Difficulty: trekking

My story about trekking to Everest in the fall of 2008.

Elbrus (5642 m)

The highest peak of the Caucasus, Russia and all of Europe. The classic route “Elbrus from the South” is absolutely devoid of any technical difficulties. The main danger and cause of accidents is losing the route due to a sudden deterioration in weather.

Recently, climbing Elbrus from the north has been gaining popularity.

In July-August 2012, my friend and I traversed Elbrus, ascending from the north, spending the night on the saddle and descending along the southern slope.

Best time: July-August
Duration: 7-10 days,
Difficulty: 2A

Volcano Cotopaxi (5897 m)

The second highest, but most active volcano in Ecuador. There is a beautiful huge crater at the top!

Best time: December-January
Duration: 7+ days,
Difficulty: 2B

Kilimanjaro (5898 m)

A volcano in Tanzania known to any child. Mega is popular among trekkers due to its exotic nature and the absolute absence of technical difficulties on the route!

Best time: January-February or September
Duration: 6+ days
Difficulty: n/a

Peaks 6000+

McKinley (6194 m)

If you don’t know what McKinley is, then it’s definitely too early for you to read further :)

Best time: May
Duration: 15-20 days

Mera Peak (6476 m)

The highest of the trekking peaks in Nepal. It does not require special mountaineering training, but, of course, requires good physical shape.

Best time: October-November (the best), March-April (second season)
Duration: 18 days

Huascaran (6768 m)

The highest peak in Peru.

Best time: end of June - beginning of July
Duration: 7+ days
Description: risk.ru/users/tom/192762/

Ojos del Salado (6893 m)

The highest volcano on Earth (!) and the second highest peak South America after Aconcagua, but it looks like an inconspicuous mess! Located in the Atacama Desert on the border of Chile and Argentina.

Aconcagua (6962 m)

The highest point in South America. Geographically located in Argentina.

Peaks 7000+

Khan Tengri (7010 m)

A fantastic ice-stone pyramid of perfectly regular shape. The second peak of the Tien Shan after the Victory. The peak is located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, seven kilometers from the border with China. Thanks to its height, technical difficulty and beauty, it has become one of the iconic peaks for any climber!

Lenin Peak (7134 m)

A mountain peak located on the border of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Technically, it is the least complex “seven-thousander” of the former USSR. Thanks to this it is mega popular. Throughout the summer season, alpine camps operate under the mountain; you can climb with qualified guides.

Peak Ismoil Somoni (Communism) (7495 m)

Once the highest peak of the Soviet Union, now the highest peak of Tajikistan. Cult mountain.

Mustag-Ata (7546 m)

One of the simplest seven-thousanders from a technical point of view. It is located on the territory of China, orographically in the Eastern Pamir system. It is possible to ascend and descend on skis (ski touring).

Peaks 8000+

Shisha Pangma (8027 m)

One of the simplest eight-thousanders from a technical point of view.

Gasherbrum II (8035 m)

The second of the three simplest and safest (relatively speaking, of course!) eight-thousanders.

Cho Oyu (8201 m)

It is considered the least difficult eight-thousander of the Himalayas. While trekking to Everest Base Camp in the fall of 2008, we stood right under its enormous wall!

Everest (8848 m)