Lhasa Temple of the Golden Dragon healing of diseases. Lhasa China: tours to Lhasa, holidays in Lhasa - information from leading tour operators in Lhasa and China - Russian-Chinese Club

Jokhang Monastery ("House of God") is Tibet's most sacred site, attracting throngs of prostrating Tibetan pilgrims and curious tourists every day. The monastery hosts the annual festival of the Great Prayer, as well as all the initiation rites of the Dalai Lama and the Panchen Lama. In 2000, Jokhang Monastery was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Myths and facts

According to legend, Princess Bhrikuti selected a place to build a temple using geomancy (Feng Shui). But everything she built was destroyed. Then, after many unsuccessful attempts to build it in the area, she turned to King Wen Cheng for help. He said that the temple should be built in the center of the lake where the demoness lived. But first, in order to neutralize the demoness and pin her to the ground, it is necessary to fill and level the lake with mountain soil brought with the help of a thousand goats. The built structure was named Ra-Sa-Vprul-Snang ("ra" - goat, "sa" - earth) to perpetuate the memory of those goats.

Whether this legend is true or not, he brought Buddhism to Tibet and became an integral part of Tibetan history and culture. Around it grew the city of Ra-Sa, which over time became known as Lhasa, the holy land.

The Jokhang Monastery is a massive four-story building with an open roof topped by two golden hinds and a wheel of dharma, early symbols of Buddhism. The main buildings of the 7th century were reconstructed in the 17th century during the reign of the fifth Dalai Lama. Most of the paintings and statues date back to the 18th and 19th centuries.

The monastery was damaged during the Mongol invasion, but the worst destruction befell the Jokhang after the occupation of Tibet in 1959. During the Chinese Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), part of the temple was used as a pigsty, and other buildings housed Chinese soldiers who warmed themselves by the fire, burning ancient Tibetan scriptures.

What to see

Today the area of ​​the temple complex is 25,000 square meters. m. The architecture combines a fusion of styles from Tibet, China and Nepal. The building consists of several halls and altars. Dark labyrinths connect the temple halls with chapels dedicated to various gods and Bodhisattvas.

In the central hall is the main treasure of the monastery - Shakyamuni Buddha (also called the "wish-granter") - the most revered statue in Tibetan Buddhism. The statue, depicting a life-size (1.5m) Buddha at the age of 12, was probably brought from India as part of the dowry of the Chinese princess Wencheng in 641. The most beautiful statue of Tibet, cast from precious metals and richly decorated with precious stones, stands surrounded by King Songtsen Gampo and his two wives: the Chinese princess Wen Cheng and the Nepalese princess Bhrikuti, who contributed to the spread of Buddhism in Tibet.

On the third floor there is a statue of Palden Lhamo - the only female deity among the group of Eight Dharma Guardians and the main protector of Lhasa and the Dalai Lama. According to legend, she killed her own child to end her husband's endless military campaign.

And in the suburbs of Lhasa there are, surrounded by amazingly beautiful gardens, and one of the largest Buddhist monasteries in the world.

Jokhang monastery is open from 11.30 to 17.30 (from 8.00 to 11.30 open only to believers).
Cost: 70 yuan (about 8 €), permission for photography - 90 yuan.
Visiting time for groups is limited to one hour (20 minutes are allocated for viewing the gallery of a thousand Buddhas, 10 minutes for the central hall and 20 minutes for photographing the golden roof of the temple from the outside).

Lhasa (Tib. ལྷ་ས་, Chinese: 拉萨) is the capital of the Tibet Autonomous Region in China. The city is located at an altitude of 3,650 m (12,000 ft) above sea level on the northern slopes of the Himalayas.

general information

The history of the city of Lhasa, whose name means “Land of the Gods,” goes back more than 1,300 years, and the city itself is located in the valley of the Lhasa River. In the eastern part of the city, near the Jokhang Temple and Barkhor area, the Tibetan influence is still strong and visible, and it is quite common to find traditionally dressed Tibetans doing a kora (clockwise circumambulation or walk around the Jokhang Temple) turning prayer wheels. The western part of Lhasa is ethnically Chinese in character. It is a busy and modern part of the city, similar to many Chinese cities. Most of the infrastructure, including banks or government offices, can be found here. You can book a hotel on, and you can check if there is a more attractive price somewhere. You can search for offers to rent private apartments or rooms.

How to get there

To visit Tibet, non-Chinese nationalities require special permission and must be accompanied by a guide.

By plane

Lhasa Gonggar Airport (贡嘎机场) (IATA: LXA) is located 61 km south of Lhasa. You can navigate by prices for air tickets.

All non-Chinese travelers must be met at the airport by a tour guide. You can hire a taxi when you leave the airport. In addition, there is a regular bus (25 yuan). Non-Chinese travelers use transportation provided by the travel agency.

By train

The Qinghai - Tibet (Qingzan) Railway connects Lhasa and Golmud, with connections to Xining, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou and Chongqing.

• T27/28 from/to Beijing-West (daily, 44 hours).
• T22/23/24/21 from/to (every other day, 44 hours).
• T222/223/224/221 from/to Chongqing (every other day, 45 hours).
• T164/165/166/163 from/to Shanghai (daily, 48 hours).
• T264/265/266/263 from/to Guangzhou (every other day, 55 hours) - the longest railway connection in China (4980 km).
• K917/918 from/to Lanzhou (daily, 27 hours).
• K9801/9802 from/to Xining West (daily, 24 hours).

Non-Chinese tourists are not able to purchase their own tickets. Foreigners must purchase tickets through a travel agency. Tickets are hardest to get during Chinese New Year (January and February) and the summer holidays (July and August).

Moving from the railway station

A taxi ride between the city and the train station will cost exactly 30 yuan; drivers do not use meters. Check the cost of the trip in advance, as many drivers will try to charge 100 yuan. Alternatively, take the bus (1 RMB) to get to the other side of the river and catch a metered taxi there.

Clue:

Lhasa - the time is now

Hour difference:

Moscow − 3

Kazan − 3

Samara − 2

Ekaterinburg − 1

Novosibirsk 1

Vladivostok 4

When is the season? When is the best time to go

Lhasa - weather by month

Clue:

Lhasa - weather by month

Main attractions. What to see

Potala Palace (Phodrang)

A citadel probably existed on Red Hill before the 7th century, when King Songtsen Gyalpo built a fortress for his two wives. The palace was rebuilt under the V Dalai Lama for three years, then the XIII Dalai Lama expanded and rebuilt it. This is how we see the palace today. In 1775, under the VII Dalai Lama, Norbulinka became a summer residence, and Potala became a winter palace. In the Potala you can discover the rooms in which the Dalai Lamas lived, as well as their luxurious golden tombs. As the religious and political center of old Tibet, as well as the winter residence of the Dalai Lamas, the palace witnessed not only the life of the Dalai Lamas, but also the major political and religious events of recent centuries. The Potala Palace houses a huge number of rare cultural relics, including handwritten golden Buddhist scriptures, valuable gifts from the emperors of China and many priceless antiques. You can get into the palace for ¥100. You will take an hour-long guided tour of the palace; at least you'll be given the necessary amount of time to walk up and down the many steps leading to the 14-story-tall residence. Make sure you are acclimatized before visiting. The Potala Palace was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1994, the Jokhang Temple in 2000, and the Norbulinga Summer Residence in 2001.

Summer Palace (summer residence) Norbulinka

Located approximately 1 km west of the Potala Palace, it was built in 1775 by the 7th Dalai Lama and expanded under each subsequent ruler. Currently, restoration work is underway at the residence, and on the territory of the complex there is a small zoo, botanical gardens and a mansion. The entrance fee will be 60 yuan (2015).

Churches and temples. Which ones are worth visiting?

Jokhang Temple (Tsuglahkhan)

Built in the 7th century for a Buddha statue that Princesses Bhrikuti of Nepal and Wen Cheng of China's Tang Dynasty brought as a gift for their future husband, King Songtsen Gumbo. Over the centuries, the temple has been expanded many times and now houses statues of King Songtsen Gumbo and his two famous brides. However, the Jowo Shakyamuni Buddha statue, brought by Princess Wen Cheng from Chang'an about 1,300 years ago, is the most sacred and famous landmark and perhaps the most revered religious shrine in all of Tibet. The magnificent four-story temple under a gilded roof faces west and is located in Barkhor Square in the center of the old part of Lhasa.

Drepung Monastery

Founded in 1416 by a follower of Tsong Khapa, it became the largest and most luxurious monastery in Tibet, where Lamas participated in the preparation of new Dalai Lamas. Drepung became the abode of Nechung, the state oracle of Tibet. Throughout its history, Drepung had about 10,000 monks, and under its control were 700 “minor” monasteries and extensive domains. Drepung belongs to the Gelugpa sect.

The monastery is located 10 kilometers west of the old part of Lhasa, you can get to it by buses No. 17, 24 and others for 1 yuan. Bus number 24 runs between Drepung and Sera. The entrance fee to the monastery will be 50 yuan (2015), and it will take half a day to explore it. It is recommended to stock up on water and snacks. In front of the monastery (at the ticket office) there are several small restaurants.

Sera Monastery

It was founded in 1419 by one of the eight disciples of Tsonga Kapa (founder of the Gelupa sect). The monastery became famous for its tantric teachings, while Drepung became famous for its political involvement. Sera was smaller than Drepung, Sera's brethren numbered 7,000 monks, but the monastery was not inferior in wealth and was similar to Drepung in power. The monks of Sera were considered intelligent and dangerous.

The monastery is located 5 kilometers north of the city center, which can be reached by buses No. 6,16, 24 and others for 1 yuan. Bus number 24 runs between Drepung and Sera. The entrance fee to Sera is 50 yuan (2015), and it will take 3 hours to walk around the monastery. 10 meters from the ticket office on the right side there is a path that will lead to the entrance to the monastery, which can be entered without a ticket.

Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?

Tibet Museum

The entrance fee will be 25 yuan. This is a museum of carefully selected artifacts reflecting the centuries-old history of Tibet. At the entrance you can pick up a free audio guide in your language. As you might expect, the museum presents the Chinese view of the “peaceful liberation” of Tibet, but the place is worth a visit.

Tourist streets

Barkhor street market

Located on the oldest typical Tibetan street surrounding the Jokhang Temple on all sides, in the center of the old part of Lhasa, where you can haggle with local Tibetan sellers of handicrafts that are rarely found anywhere else in the world. For many centuries, Barkhor Street has been one of the most important religious routes along which pilgrims circle the Jokhang Temple turning prayer wheels. Buddhist pilgrims walk clockwise along the street every day until nightfall. On your first visit to Barkhor, visit Barkhor Square, built in 1985. The square has repeatedly become the site of political protests and clashes between the Chinese and Tibetans.

What to see in the area

• From the street on the east side of the Yak Hotel, buses depart early in the morning to Shigatse, Tsetang, Samye, Nakchu, Danzhung. From the intercity bus station you can go to Golmud, (via Xining and Lanzhou), Nakchu, Chamdo, Bayi, Tsetang, Shigatse and Dram. Depending on your documents, you will be allowed (or not allowed) to purchase a ticket for a particular destination.
• Flying from Lhasa is quite simple: daily flights connect the capital of Tibet and major cities in China, in addition, several days a week there are flights from Lhasa to:
• 7-day trip includes hotel accommodation, breakfast, 4-wheel jeep for transportation. Tourists are accompanied by a guide who takes responsibility for registering them with the police when entering and leaving the city (this is standard procedure).
• Samye Monastery was built in 779 under the patronage of King Trison Detsun and under the supervision of Shantarakshita and Padmasambhava, two prominent Buddhist teachers from India. Samye became the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet and to this day remains one of the most important shrines for pilgrims in the region. Samye is located near Dranang, 150 km southeast of Lhasa. You can get to the monastery by bus or minivan. The trip lasts 2 days. If you have time, visit the nearby Chimpu hermitage, where you can experience more spiritual vibrations than Samye. A permit is required to avoid hassle with the police and fines.

• Ganden Monastery is located on the southern bank of the Kyichu River, 45 kilometers east of Lhasa. Ganden is the main monastery of the Gelugpa ("Yellow Hats") order of Tibetan Buddhism. Built in 1409 by Tsongkhapa, who founded Gelugpa, the recently reconstructed monastery offers breathtaking views of the mountainous terrain.
• You can take a hiking trip between the Ganden and Saumier monasteries, which will take on average 4 - 5 days (at a fast pace - 3 days).

There are many nice and comfortable restaurants located near the Jokhang Temple and the historical center of Barkhor. Recently, Indian and Nepalese restaurants, as well as Tibetan restaurants with Western cuisine, have increasingly opened in Lhasa. Lunch per person costs 30 yuan, drinks are included. Small Tibetan restaurants, especially tea houses, throughout Barkhor are much cheaper and tastier than restaurants for tourists (from 5 yuan). The Tibetan restaurants in Barkhor are steeped in tradition, and to a Western traveler, Chinese food may seem much more varied and appealing than the slippery boiled yak meat served in Tibet at the Chinese restaurants around Barkhor and in the new part of Lhasa. Nowadays, in all Tibetan establishments, when you order milk tea, you will be served sweet tea made with powdered milk imported from China. All restaurants provide free hot water. Tibetan restaurants can also be found on the way to Sera and Drepung monasteries.

“Tsham khung nunnery"s restaurant" (Tsham khung monastery: མཚམས་ཁུང་དགོན་པ་) is located on Ling khor South road. The restaurant is inside the nunnery with a separate entrance. In the menu (in English) you can find “thugpa” vermicelli , momo dumplings (with meat or vegetables) and milk tea.Inexpensive but tasty food.

Western cuisine:

• Tibet Steak Restaurant. There are two such restaurants: one is opposite the Mandala restaurant next to the Jokhang Temple, the second is to the west of the Potala Palace. The menu of both restaurants includes Tibetan, Nepalese, Indian, Chinese and Western cuisines.
• Snowland Restaurant at 4 Tenjieling Road, near Jokhang Square (☎ 0891-6337323). A varied menu including Western, Nepalese, Indian and Tibetan cuisine. It is famous for its high level of service and delicious food, which is why it is very popular.
• New Mandala Restaurant, with a rooftop garden, is located opposite the Jokhang Temple (☎ 86-0891-6342235). Indian, Nepalese, Tibetan and Western cuisine. The roof offers a beautiful view of the city. Try the (“pinching”) yak meat.
• Tengyelink Cafe. Famous for its excellent yak meat, pleasant atmosphere. They offer the best food in all of Lhasa. Inexpensive breakfasts are provided.

Safety. What to watch out for

Note to tourists

1. Please remove your head covering when visiting the Jokhang, Potala or other sacred sites. Avoid short shorts and T-shirts. When visiting shrines, it is customary to leave a small donation, especially if admission is free.
2. Walk around stupas and other sacred places only in a clockwise direction.
3. Do not climb on statues, monuments or other sacred objects.
4. Avoid garlic before visiting the temple. Tibetans consider its smell a sign of disrespect.
5. Photography is prohibited at the Potala Palace, but photography is permitted at the Jokhang Temple. In some monasteries it is possible to take photographs for a nominal fee. The monks will allow you to take photographs after a small donation. If in doubt, ask before taking out your camera.

Altitude sickness

Before traveling to Lhasa, read the article on altitude sickness to know its symptoms, precautions to take, and treatment options. Altitude sickness can easily ruin your holiday, and in some cases it can even be fatal. Lhasa is located at an altitude of 3,750 m above sea level, so there is a significant risk of altitude sickness, especially if your hometown is at a lower altitude and your body has not had time to acclimatize. If you are forced to fly to Lhasa, it would not be a bad idea to make a stop at an intermediate point, such as Kunming, which is located at an altitude of 1,950 m above sea level, and stay there for several days to acclimatize.

Religious laws

Under no circumstances should you give or show photographs of the Dalai Lama to monks or local residents, as this may get you into trouble. Remember: some monks cooperate with the authorities, while others do not.

Theft

Take precautions when going shopping at Barkhor or the Jokhang Temple. To avoid problems, leave large backpacks at the hotel and watch your wallet.

Beggars

Don't give alms to children and be careful before you give: giving to one beggar can attract a whole crowd.

Things to do

• Kora is a meditative circumambulation around a shrine such as a temple, practiced by many Tibetans.
• Opera Langma (literally "royal music") is a traditional Tibetan song and dance show.
• “Blind massage” at the medical massage clinic at the address: Lhasa, 59 Beijing Middle Road, 3rd floor (opposite the Kichu Hotel). ☎ 6320870. Cost - ¥80/hour. The staff speaks English. With the support of the Braille Without Borders project. A great way to adjust to altitude or just relax.
• The amusement park, which is located at No.30-32 Sela Road.

Shopping and shops

Please note: many ATMs do not accept foreign bank cards, unlike the Bank of China, which also provides currency exchange.

• The stalls on Barkhor Street are captivating with their amazing items, but most of them are “junk” from Nepal and China. An example would be fake bronze figurines or paintings that have nothing to do with Buddha. Despite this, you can find many authentic things here. Look out for household items and woodwork such as balls, pilgrim stamps, silver items, gau (a variant of an amulet), silver and brass seals, old Tibetan bills, knitted satchels and woven bags. Buying Tibetan antiques is quite an attractive idea, but it has a devastating effect on the culture of Tibet.
• In search of a Buddhist thangka, head to the workshop you will find in the back streets. In the workshop you can watch the process of its creation. In this regard, a walk through the “backyards” of Barkhor is quite rewarding: here you can meet artisans in the process of creating paintings, furniture, clay sculptures, masks, ceremonial symbols and appliqués. Not all works of art can be taken home with you, but it is worth seeing.
• Tibet is considered the origin of traditional carpet manufacturers, although many purportedly Tibetan carpets displayed in shops in Barkhora and in front of the Potala are made in factories in Nepal under the direction of Tibetan emigrants, and a significant number of patterns are Turkmen and Afghan and have nothing to do with the traditions of Tibet. Some stores place carpets on looms to ensure their authenticity, but the showrooms in most cases are imported samples. To find an authentic Tibetan carpet, visit a factory or an exhibition from a factory. Take a close look at the product and make sure that you are buying a carpet identical to what you saw on the loom. Smell the carpet: real Tibetan wool contains lanolin and has a characteristic smell. Cheap wool from Qinghai and Mongolia is comparatively drier. Occasionally, older examples can be found in Barkhor and shops nearby, although collectors hunt for good, antique carpets, so their prices can be much higher, even in Lhasa.
• Tianhai Night Market, located in the western suburbs, is famous for its large variety of goods and low prices compared to Barkhor Street.
• Tibetan blankets (address: Snow Leopard Industries, 2 East Zang Yi Yuan Road, next to the Snowland Hotel and Barkhor Square). ☎ 0891-6321481. A small store with a wide range of traditional and modern models, made in our own factory. Fixed reasonable prices. The owner speaks English and can explain the differences in Tibetan patterns and explain the process of making blankets. In addition, the store has a souvenir shop with low prices. Delivery of blankets abroad is possible. Credit cards accepted.
• Tibetan Carpets - The Tanva Carpet Workshop, in Nam village, on the road between Lhasa and Hongkar Airport, is a new Tibetan carpet workshop that uses only hand-spun Tibetan highland wool to create both traditional and contemporary rugs. You will be able to see the carpet making process with your own eyes and purchase them (prices for used carpets are reduced) in the on-site showroom. You can ask questions and arrange a visit by calling the factory manager Norb (☎ 1398 990 8681). Carpets created in the workshop are sold in Torana stores in Beijing and Shanghai. Photos and details can be found on the store's website.
• Oil painting at Kharma Gallery, on the 2nd floor opposite the Snowland Hotel (☎ 86-891-6338013). The gallery features quality oil paintings by Tibetan artists on Tibetan themes (landscapes, people, religious places, animals, etc.).
• The Gedun Choephel gallery on the corner of Barkhor is, simply put, at the very extreme point from the Jokhang Temple. It contains works by most of Lhasa's avant-garde artists, few of whom have exhibited in Beijing and London. The gallery hosts rotating exhibitions and is well worth a look.
• Handicrafts at Dropenling Handicraft Development Center at 11 Chak Tsal Gang Road (☎ 0891-6360558). Call for directions or walk straight from Barkhor Square to Lhasa Mosque, then turn left. The high prices justify the quality of the items sold in the store, made in Tibet. Profits go to the development of handicrafts. Credit cards accepted.

Bars. Where to go

• Travelers Bar. Located on East Beijing Road. A favorite place for travelers.
• "Low House Music Bar" with traditional Indian, Nepalese and Tibetan motifs. Located in the family home of the 11th Dalai Lama.
• “Dunya Restaurant, Bar and Balcony” is an establishment with a pleasant atmosphere run by two foreigners.
• "Gang La Mei Duo" The walls of this establishment are decorated with canvases and watercolor paintings on Tibetan themes, which you can purchase here.
• Guge Tavern and Bar. The furnishings consist of stone stools and simple tables.
• "Gu Xiu Na Book Bar." Here you will be offered to read books on religious topics.
• "7 Square-meter Bar", located at 83 Beijing Road West.
• "Shambhala" (at 7 Jiri 2 Lane) decor is in the style of a Tibetan house.

How to get around the city

• The central square with the main tourist attractions (Potala, Jokhang, Barkhor, Ramoche) is most conveniently “explored” on foot.
• You will meet bicycle rickshaws at every turn, however, be prepared to bargain.

• A taxi ride will cost 10 yuan in any direction within the city. Just stop the taxi on the side of the road. Be prepared to make room: the driver will often pull up to the curb looking for other passengers heading to the same location. Each passenger will pay 10 yuan, and this will increase the taxi driver's income, despite the set fare.
• A ride on a city bus will cost you 1 yuan. Non-Chinese tourists are allowed to travel by bus within the city. You will even have fun, since these trips are infrequent. The bus number is easy to find, but directions are in Chinese, so check in advance which bus you need.
• Minibuses run to Norbulingka, Sera Monastery, Drepung Monastery and other nearby places. Many people use public transport routes.
• Pilgrim Buses can be found in front of the Jokhang Temple or in the temple parking lot. They depart at 6 - 7 am in the direction of Tsurpha Gompa, Ganden Gompa, Nyemo (Dazi), Phenpo Lhundrub (Lingzhou), Meldro Gungkar (Chinese Mozhugongka), Chushul (Chinese Qushui), Takts (Dazi), Gongkar (Chinese . Gongga) and other areas. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket office in the parking lot or when boarding the bus. Whether tourists of non-Chinese nationality can travel on such buses is unknown. If you are not Chinese, you are traveling with a guide and you can ask him about it. After all, it is much more interesting to travel this way than on a private Land Cruiser. However, organizing tours requires following pre-planned routes, and most likely you will not be able to use such a service.
• Some hotels and shops provide bicycles, so if you have a few hours to spare in your schedule, cycling is a great way to 'explore' the city. The air here is not as polluted as in most Chinese cities, but the roads have their own customs: the best way is to snuggle up with a bicycle or pedicabs to chat.

WONDERS OF THE GOLDEN DRAGON

Rangoon, the capital of Burma and the third largest city of the Indian Empire, can rightfully be considered the Mecca of Buddhism. East and West intertwined on its streets, forming a kind of exotic mixture. Modern office buildings sit peacefully next to gilded Burmese shrines, and Buddhist monks in burgundy robes mingle with impeccably dressed tourists. However, the general atmosphere of modern industrialism is not capable of completely destroying that serenity that constitutes the elusive but most important element of Eastern life.

A traveler approaching Rangoon along the river initially perceives the city as a mysterious mirage with ghostly buildings clearly visible through the haze that envelops them. But the fog eventually clears, and a shining and iridescent stream of golden light suddenly seems to fall from the gray sky. The source of the light, this crystallized ray of sunlight, turns out to be Shuedagon, or the Golden Dragon Pagoda - the most sacred and beautiful of the countless Buddha temples.

The Golden Dragon Pagoda, located north of the city, stands on top of a small hill rising 50 m above the level of the surrounding area. The specially leveled surface of the hill and artificially increased slopes form a pagoda platform about 275 m long and approximately 215 m wide. You can climb to the platform via four flights of stairs, one on each side of the world. The main entrance is on the south side, facing Rangoon.

A tourist approaching the pagoda from the south is greeted by two massive griffins* - two brightly painted Burmese lions of a grotesque appearance made of white plaster with an evil look of shining eyes. The entrance itself is an imposing structure in typical Siamese style, similar in appearance to a pagoda, the roof of which is decorated with intricate carvings along the edge. Right in front of the entrance you can almost always see a variety of shoes lined up in long rows; here local sandals step on the toes of imported low shoes, and elegant sports shoes and military boots peacefully coexist with graceful high-heeled pumps and worn clogs.

Nearby, a group of Burmese boys sit on a low, uneven wall; each one holds in his hands an indescribable-looking bucket of water and several pieces of rags. These young businessmen invented a new activity: they adapted themselves to wash the feet of tourists who are forced to make their way barefoot through the corridors of the pagoda, for no one is allowed to enter Shuedagon without first taking off their shoes and socks; in the East, this ritual is equivalent to removing one's hat when entering a Christian church. It is said that the law forcing tourists to remove their shoes was introduced in Burma solely because such a custom was offensive to the British. In this unique way, Burma twisted the tail of the British lion.

The flights of stairs leading to the pagoda platform are enclosed on all sides by walls and a roof made of teak wood, all covered with intricate carvings; and, as soon as a barefoot tourist enters the mud-slick, worn-out steps, he immediately finds himself in a real oriental bazaar of religious antiquities. Pilgrims who come here from all over the world to atone for their sins in this holy place certainly want to take with them some souvenirs to remember their visit to the shrine. Demand, as we know, gives rise to supply, and therefore the road leading to the temple is completely dotted with small shops where believers can buy crudely made figurines and tacky multi-color lithographs for five cents.

Having climbed the stairs and passed through the quaint gate, the tourist finally finds himself on the platform of the pagoda, and before his eyes such a stunning sight opens up that the language simply does not have enough words to describe its splendor. And although the platform is actually rectangular in shape, it appears as if it is a huge circle. The grandiose central pagoda is surrounded by a wide promenade*, with facades facing rows of sanctuaries located on all sides, decorated with ornate carvings. The middle of the promenade is lined with carpets, and most Europeans happily prefer to stay on this surface.

Imagine, if you can, of course, two hundred and fifty pagodas at once, each from 3.5 m to 30.5 m high, with its original carvings, most of them gilded or covered with a layer of varnish. Hundreds of golden spiers shine in the sun, thousands of silver bells ring gently from a light breeze, and diamonds, emeralds and rubies worth millions of dollars sparkle and shimmer in the rays of the midday sun with all the colors of the rainbow - this is how Shuedagon appears before you!

On the platform of the Golden Dragon, countless examples of the architecture of forty nations are collected in artistic disorder. Strange slanted roofs from Siam; fluted spiers from Indochina; amazing stupas from Cambodia; bell-like dagobas from Tibet; ornate pediments from China and Korea; ornately carved towers and semicircular domes from India and Ceylon all cluster around the golden base of Shuedagon.

Sculptures of Buddha standing everywhere, each peeking out from its own niche. There are also huge stone Buddhas, sitting for centuries immersed in meditation; Teakwood Buddhas with lacquered faces in dark, shiny robes; marble Buddhas in gold inlaid robes; Buddhas made of bronze and copper with emerald eyes and ruby ​​lips; small gold Buddhas and silver saints seated in bejeweled niches; Buddhas made of jade, amethyst, rose quartz and crystal. Buddhas differ not only in the material from which they are made, but also in their poses: some Buddhas sit in meditation, others kneel in prayer, others stand and preach, others recline and with half-closed eyelids await the onset of nirvana. Here you can see giant Buddhas ranging from 15 to 18 m in height and Buddhas so tiny that they can easily fit between the thumb and forefinger. In total, more than twenty-five thousand sculptural images of the “Light of Asia” are placed on the Shuedagon platform.

Many of the smaller shrines have gilded rods across the façade. Behind these bars are Buddha statues adorned with priceless jewels; These statues have diamonds the size of 25 cents burning in their foreheads, and their clothing is encrusted with fabulous amounts of precious stones. Some of these shrines are many centuries old, while others remain unfinished. Here and there some modern zealot erects a concrete shrine for a practical purpose, introducing a fair amount of absurdity into the overall harmonious picture.

The platform of the Golden Dragon housed not only schools of Buddhist monks, but also monasteries that provided shelter for people afflicted with diseases such as leprosy and tuberculosis, who came here for healing. Monks with shaved heads and scepters made of horse tails tirelessly wander between the golden altars. They are considered the guardians of this world famous shrine.

People who are unable to appreciate the years of painstaking labor that go into decorating gilded shrines with intricate carvings tend to view all this rich ornamentation as simply crude antique trinkets. However, regardless of the variety of individual impressions arising from the contemplation of the incredible array of shining altars, all agree on one thing: that the grand pagoda, rising in the center of the platform, is a perfection of beauty, simplicity and grandeur. The huge spire of Sheudagon with a golden umbrella as the only decoration, gracefully bending, soars above the platform to a height of 113 m. The strict simplicity of its outline expresses true aestheticism. The numerous pagodas clustered around the base of the Golden Dragon look like foothills surrounding a lonely, inaccessible mountain.

The shape of the Shuedagon Pagoda has a special meaning. The base is made in the form of an inverted bowl, which is used by priests in Asia to collect food. Above the base there are folds of the turban, from which a double lotus flower grows. Above the lotus rises a pagoda spire in the shape of a banana bud. The design is given a touch of modernity by the countless strings of electric lights that decorate the pagoda, which at night dominates the city like a giant Christmas tree. The perimeter of the base of the central pagoda is 416 m. Local bricks were used to build the entire structure. The current "umbrella" that forms the canopy of the pagoda was installed in 1871. It consists of iron rings covered with gold plates and hung with gold and silver bells, the ringing of which can be clearly heard on the platform. The top of the umbrella is called "sein-ba", which means "jeweled crown". Sein-ba is studded with a mass of sparkling diamonds, emeralds and rubies, as many wealthy Burmese Buddhists hung their personal jewelry on it even before it was raised and installed at the top of the pagoda. And as soon as a ray of sunlight touches one of the huge stones, a bright flash of green, red or white light immediately blinds the eyes of everyone standing below.

The first pagoda, no more than 8 m high, was built on a small hill in 500 BC. e. Centuries passed, and the holy place remained in complete oblivion until 1446 AD. e., when, through the care of a pious ruler, its restoration began. Since then, the structure has increased in size and was maintained in good repair until 1776, when it acquired its current appearance. The huge stupa was repeatedly gilded and new layers of brick were laid, which were then covered with gold again, and therefore it is now impossible to accurately estimate how much of the precious metal was used to decorate the pagoda. The previous method of gilding, as not being economical enough, was replaced by a new one, and now the pagoda is gilded using gold foil 3.2 mm thick, covering the surface of the brick with it to the place where the spire emerges from the dome. It is difficult for a Westerner to imagine the colossal amount of work involved in lining a structure with a circumference of 416 m with gold foil. However, faith is a spiritual quality that manifests itself more clearly in Burma than in the Western world, and therefore the dazzling brilliance of the Golden Dragon has no other rival than the brilliance of the Golden Dragon itself. sun.

As always, the same question arises: why was this grandiose sanctuary built? What does this holy place represent? If you ask a local monk about this, he will answer that the pagoda marks the place where the sacred relics of the four Buddhas are kept, and therefore it is the holiest of all its kind. Indeed, somewhere deep under the Golden Dragon are hidden the greatest Buddhist shrines: the bowl of Krakuchanda, the robe of Gaunagon, the staff of Kathapa and eight hairs from the head of Gautama. Where else are holy relics so carefully preserved? In this unique way, Asia pays respect to its liberators.

Despite its overwhelming splendor, the Shuedagon Pagoda is absolutely not in harmony with the spirit of the great teacher, whose remains it serves as a safe repository. Buddha preached the insignificance of earthly treasures; according to his sermons, in order to discover Reality, a person must free himself from the illusion of physical existence and retire to the inner fortress of his own “I”. According to Lord Gautama, neither the pagoda nor the sanctuary contain any meaning, for they are also part of an illusion from which one must be able to renounce. For him there was nothing real except his own "I", nothing absolute but the "I", and no true achievement except complete fusion with this "I". And when he sat, immersed in samadhi*, his consciousness merged with the consciousness of the universe. His mission was to teach people how to break free from the bondage to illusion that comes from recognizing the parts, and thus achieve the complete freedom that is awareness of the whole. The Golden Dragon's revelation reads: "Asia loves her Buddhas and pays tribute to them, but Asia understands nothing."