The poem "Baidar Gates" Kazin Vasily Vasilyevich. H

Baydar Gates is one of the amazing sights of the Crimean peninsula. Baydar gates are located on the old Sevastopol road, between the villages of Foros and Orlinoe.

Geographical coordinates of the Baidar Gates on the map of Crimea GPS N 44.406153, E 33.782005.

- a monument that was built in 1848 in honor of the end of the grandiose construction at that time, namely the road that connected the city of Yalta and Sevastopol. It is difficult to overestimate the strategic importance of this road - at that time it was the second road leading to Yalta. The first one was built in 1837, it connected Yalta and Simferopol, as a result the city received a new direction for communication and trade. Now Yalta had three possible routes: the sea and two roads to the western and northern direction of the Crimea. In the middle of the 19th century, Turkey's claims to the Crimean peninsula were still strong, and each new road provided significant opportunities for maneuvering troops, their quick and imperceptible transfer on the peninsula.

Vorontsov was engaged in construction work and development of this part of the Crimea. By his order, in honor of the completion of construction work, a portico was built by the architect K.I. Ashliman, along with an observation deck that offers a wonderful view of the sea.
Baydar gates are located at an altitude of 604 meters above sea level, between the Chhu-Bair and Chelebi mountains. One of the best views of the Foros Church, Cape Aya and Laspi Bay opens from the Baydar Gate.

Planning a trip to the Baydar Gates, usually visit the second attraction located on the route, namely the Foros Church. Its construction gave invaluable experience in the construction of complex objects on the edge of a cliff and on steep terrain in the Crimea. After the Foros Church, one of the most famous sights of the Crimea, the Swallow's Nest, was built.

You can get to the Baydar Gates from Sevastopol: after passing Balaklava and the biker club "Night Wolves", you need to find a turn to the village of Orlinoe or find the sign "Shalash restaurant"; further along the main road and in 20 minutes you are at the destination. The second option: climb from the side of Foros, there is a turn towards the gate, indicated by a large sign "Shalash restaurant"; the road in front of the tunnel goes sharply to the right, 20 minutes ascent and you are at the Foros Church, another 5 minutes uphill and you are at the Baydar Gates.

Near the Baydar Gate there is a restaurant with great views and good food, mainly ethnic Crimean cuisine. As well as a small market with souvenirs and fur products. Almost all products on the market are handmade, sellers are mainly from the nearby mountain village of Orlinoe.

Visit to the Baydar Gate and - a very interesting adventure, the road is much better than on, the slopes and turns are not so sharp and the serpentine is not so strongly felt. On the way, from the side, there will be several mountain springs built at the end of the 19th century. In the summer, water flows from only one, and the rest of the time both sources work. Therefore, if possible, take a container for a set of water with you.

Directly from the gates of the sanatorium "Foros" begins a serpentine leading to the Baydar gates. The Baydar Gates is a pass on the old Sevastopol-Alupka highway built in the middle of the 19th century. This was the second crew exit to the South Bank. Before the conquest of the Crimea by the Russians, there were no carriage exits to the South Bank at all. There were only pack and hiking trails. After the Crimea went to Russia, a road was built from Simferopol to Alushta through the Angarsk Pass, and in 1848 - the Sevastopol-Alupka highway.

The Baydar Gates are named after the Baydar Valley, which is located on the other side of the Crimean Mountains. She, in turn, was called so after the village of Baydary. This is a Tatar name. In our time, the village was called Eagle. Baydar gates are described in many literary works, as they are very spectacular. From the side of the Baidarskaya valley you go up a winding road, which is constrained by rocks on both sides. The terrain is gloomy, with many twists and turns. Suddenly you see a really “gate” ahead: a corridor cut into the rock, on top of which several slabs are laid. When you pass through these gates, the sea distance and the most extensive view of the entire southern coast of Crimea suddenly open up before you. For people traveling here for the first time, it always makes an indelible impression. Tour guides always stop groups here and enjoy the effect produced on the sightseers. Catherine II also looked at the southern coast of Crimea from Baydar when she made a trip to the Crimea in 1787. She arrived here from Sevastopol, which at that time was not yet any Sevastopol, but was Akhtiyar, and it was Catherine who renamed it. But she could not get to the South Bank, there were no roads. Then Potemkin brought her to Baydary, set up a tent for her there, in which she lived for a day or two and admired from here her new possessions - the South Coast.

When we were at Baidary, a restaurant was set up there near the pass on the south coast slope, from which, in good weather, the South coast was visible all the way to the Bear Mountain. A very good place.

The descent to the sea begins from the Baydar Gates. This is a fairly gentle serpentine, on which there are many long turns. We went down on foot, so where possible these loops were cut off. One turn, another turn - and suddenly a small beautiful church hovering over the South Bank opened before us. Very colorful and surprisingly fitting into the landscape.

I recognized her immediately. As a child, I had a wooden toy box. The box was from under tea - a cube with a side of seventy centimeters, all pasted over with color pictures. GUM and Red Square were depicted on one side of this box. The monument to Minin and Pozharsky was still in the old place, approximately opposite the future Mausoleum, and not at St. Basil's Cathedral. And at GUM there was a big sign "Kuznetsov - Gubkin's successor". It was a box of Kuznetsov tea. On the second side of the box, there was an image of this very Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, which opened before us on the descent from the Baydar Gates. It was built at the expense of Kuznetsov in 1888 to commemorate the miraculous rescue of the royal family during the train explosion in Gorki. Kuznetsov made the image of this church his logo. It flickered all over the country on tea packages that came from Kuznetsov, signs and so on. And then I saw this church with my own eyes. She really was very beautiful. The entrance was crowded with people waiting for the start of the service. Service there was very rare in those years. And so the audience was waiting for the priest to arrive and let everyone inside. We never waited for this moment. And they went, they went, they went, they went along the serpentine and eventually descended from a height of five hundred meters (on which the Baydar Gates are located) to Foros itself.

FOROS CHURCH. VIEW FROM THE TUNNEL

In the pre-war years, not the Foros church, but this tunnel was the hallmark of Foros. Many postcards and photos of this tunnel were published. During the war it was blown up. It was finally destroyed in the post-war period.

Tunnel at the Baidar Gates. 1905

* Standing near the Baydar Gates, it seemed impossible for me to descend from this height without a sinking heart and secret fear, but when we set off, the fear disappeared instantly; the highway is so beautifully arranged that the slope is barely noticeable.

This descent reminded me of the descent to Mlety in the Caucasus along the Georgian Military Highway. The highway, too, for 15 versts goes along Gud-mountain in endless meanders, and the place from where you left on the top of the mountain hangs right above your head when you reach its sole. There the mountains are higher and covered with snow, but here they are more picturesque and on one side they are bordered by the sea.

Having driven three versts from the Baidar Gates, where the Yayla mountain range, due to its impregnable immensity, it was impossible to go around, an underground passage was punched in the rock. This tunnel is about 20 sazhens long, rather wide and fully corresponds to the surrounding area and the formidable rocks piled up in a chaotic disorder from the very top of Yayla to its foot.
"Memories of the Crimea" by Princess Elena Sergeevna Gorchakova
http://www.bigyalta.com.ua/node/2617

In November 41st, there was a terrible battle. He knew that there was once a tunnel near the church, blown up during the war, but he had never seen photographs of it. .


Grotto Foros
At the Foros church. Alexander Terletsky. To remember

Therefore, today there is an opportunity to talk about the events of November 1941 and about the hero-border guard Alexander Terletsky.

"... Then the German regiments and divisions rushed to Sevastopol, Walked along the highways, seeped through paths, passes and gorges, looked for any loophole - if only to surround the city from land as soon as possible. Resort towns and villages burned along the coast, flames from their reflections sea.
On the "Scarecrow" someone was wondering:
- Oh, at the Baydarsky gate to hold them!
- By the tunnel?
- Of course! There, with two machine guns, a battalion can be laid down.
And in a day or another - I don’t remember - the people of the forest house were agitated: some border guards at the Baydar Gates had done such a thing that it was hard to believe. The German motorized avant-garde was detained for a whole day. The corpses there are innumerable.
... Alexander Terletsky - the head of the Foros border outpost - was urgently summoned to the commander of the unit, Major Rubtsov.
- Where is your family, junior lieutenant?
- Evacuated, Comrade Major.
- Good. Select twenty border guards and come with them to me.
No one knew why they were lined up so suddenly. The unit commander personally walked around the formation, looked everyone in the eye.
We are leaving and you are staying. You will keep the Germans at the tunnel for a whole day. Remember - day! And no matter how they are, keep it! Who's scared - admit it!
The building was silent. The commander gave time for preparation, and in parting took Terletsky aside:
- If something happens, we will take care of Ekaterina Pavlovna and Sasha. Go, Alexander Stepanovich.
Long-range artillery explosions are buzzing in a narrow gorge - Sevastopol is beating. On a stone spot, hanging over the abyss, there is a tobacco shed - thick-walled, made of sonorous diorite.
It's empty inside, a dry tobacco leaf plays in the breeze, rustling. Only in the attic voices are barely audible - there are border guards.
Someone approaches the barn, knocks on the door with a rifle butt. In response - no sound.
An unexpected burst of machine-gun bursts through the door. Narrow beams of light from pocket flashlights search the dark corners.
The Germans enter en masse. They breathe freely, chatter, sit down.
Dawn creeps slowly.
The eyes from the attic counted the soldiers. There were eight of them - tall, young, without helmets, with machine guns on their stomachs.
Behind the walls, bouncing on gray stones, the mountain water rustled, far to the west the front was waking up.
New sounds began to be carefully woven into this already familiar noise - German cars crawled towards the tunnel.
From the attic they slashed with machine gun fire - not a single soldier got up.
- Pick up weapons, documents! - Terletsky was the first to jump from the attic. - Remove, cover with tobacco!
There was no trace left, only in the breeze, as before, dry tobacco leaf plays, rustles.
Light. Terletsky looked at the tunnel, gasped: the night explosion was not so hot.
He showed his border guards:
- Bad job! Do you understand me?
Below the tunnel, armored personnel carriers stopped, soldiers poured out of them.
- Do you understand me? - Terletsky asked again and lay down behind a machine gun installed in the attic. - And be quiet!
- Johann! - voice from below.
- Do not shoot! Suitable - with a bayonet. Poor thing, I entrust you.
- Understood.
- Johann! - a voice at the very door.
The doors creaked, parted, a helmet appeared and immediately rolled onto the yellow tobacco leaves.
Motorized infantry approached the tunnel. The soldiers strayed, began to throw away stones.
Two machine guns fired at the same time. Those who were at the tunnel fled. Only the dead and wounded remained.
Machine guns fired at the conveyors.
... Passed days. Already on the tobacco shed no attic, no doors. There was a stone frame left, five border guards from the Foros outpost survived.
Terletsky, black from burning, in a torn overcoat, was lying behind the last machine gun.
“Ten grenades, two full disks, Comrade Commander,” reported Sergeant Beduha.
The tanks arrived. Tools - on the skeleton of the barn. Hit with direct fire.
The border guards jumped out before a new salvo to the ground cut off the entire right side of the barn.
... Five border guards were brought in to the chief of staff of the Balaklava partisan detachment, Akhlestin - scorched, with sunken eyes, barely standing on their feet. One of them, tall, gray-eyed, putting his hand to his visor, reported:
- A group of border guards from the Foros outpost from a combat mission ... - The border guard fell.
- So it was you who held the Baydar gates? asked Akhlestin, raising Terletsky.
... Alexander Terletsky became the commissar of the Balaklava detachment.
"... We went up to the road. Terletsky and two radio operators. Terletsky listened. Quietly.

Let's go, - he whispered and ran across the road. Behind him are radio operators. He is in the cotoneaster, on the path, and then ... an explosion! They ran into a secret mine. The radio operators died. Terletsky fell unconscious.

In the morning, the inhabitants of the village of Baidary saw how hefty fascists were leading down the street a tall Soviet commander in a torn, bloody overcoat, with a bandaged head.

The inhabitants of the village were driven to the commandant's office. They brought in one by one, pointed to the shell-shocked commander, whose face had already been bandaged.

Terletsky's gray eyes gazed fixedly at the one who was brought up to him. The commandant asked the same thing:

Who is this?

They were silent, although they knew Alexander Stepanovich, whose outpost was behind the pass near the sea. The face-to-face confrontation continued the next day, this time the inhabitants of the village of Skeli answered. A thin man hurriedly approached with a policeman's sleeve insignia and shouted:

So this is Terletsky! Head of the Foros outpost and, of course, a partisan.
Not far from the Baydar Gate stands a lonely church. There was a restaurant here before the war, tourists came here and admired the South coast from the platform behind the church.

On a cold March day, several women, in shabby clothes, with knots on thin shoulders, huddled fearfully against the retaining wall. From below, from the direction of Yalta, a black car was approaching, honking heart-rendingly. Stopped. The Germans in black overcoats pulled a barely alive person out of the body. He couldn't stand. The Nazis wrapped a rope around the knees of the lying man and dragged him to the abyss. Something was poured into his mouth and placed over the very cliff. An officer and a skel policeman approached. The officer was shouting something, pointing down to Foros, to the sea. The Skel policeman yelled:

Confess, fool! Now you will be thrown into the abyss ...

The officer took two steps back, and the policeman wound the end of the rope around the cast-iron post of the parapet.

The Nazis pushed Terletsky into the abyss. Falling rocks rustled. One of the women screamed and froze.


The officer looked at his watch for a long time. He waved his hand. The soldiers pulled the rope - blue bare feet appeared. Terletsky was thrown into a puddle, he stirred, opened his eyes, looked intently at the women, bowed his head and began to drink greedily. They hurriedly picked him up by the arms, lifted him up, and threw him into the car. She sped off towards Baydar.

This is Katya's husband, our waitress. Yes, Ekaterina Pavlovna. She has a son - Sasha.

Lord, what have they done to the man!

It was a clear day. The drums hit. Soldiers and policemen ran along the crooked streets. The inhabitants of Skeli were driven to the granary, on the extended mat of which a noose dangled.

Cannon volleys thundered near Sevastopol.

Terletsky was dragged down the street. Thrown under the gallows.

Another salvo. Below, in the Baidar valley, there is a cloud of thick smoke. It hit the naval battery. Terletsky suddenly raised his head, listened, and looked for a long time at the silent crowd, then went up to the stool under the noose, pushed the executioner away, and himself mounted the scaffold.

Volleys burst out with new power - one after another. Terletsky turned his face to the front and, gathering the last of his strength, shouted:

Live, Sevastopol!" (I. Vergasov "Crimean Notebooks")

After the war, Ekaterina Pavlovna Terletskaya (the hero's wife) and border guards found his remains and reburied them in a park in Foros.

(I. Vergasov "Crimean Notebooks")
Source http://www.rusproject.org/history/history_10/krym_terleckij

*I just walked the road I mentioned above just yesterday. During the existence of the tunnel, the road to Foros did not pass through it, but from the church towards Mount Foros, descending in a serpentine and returning under the red rock and moving away from it again ... and eventually goes to the Sevastopol - Yalta highway. http://www.odnoklassniki.ru/baydarskay/album/51476252852405


Tunnel


The tunnel at the Baidar Gates, an old postcard from the funds of the Chekhov House Museum in Yalta

The car jerked - and behind,
With semi-family naval antiquity,
Repulsed by dust, Sevastopol disappeared.
And the gaze is an impatient string:
The sea would soon rise in a wave,
To shame before a magnificent country
With all the deafening height
And cypress and poplar!
We fly - and as if the Crimea withered,
We fly - and, as if in hoops,
We are circling in the ridges of expectation:
Will the waves spin soon?
We fly - and right on the shoulders
Masses of rocks… Touch and fuck!
We fly, teasing fear, -
Now under the mountains, then on the mountains, -
And if only the distant shimmer of the sea!
The censure of Crimea is already ready ...
We fly, we fly… Dusty ashes frolic.
We fly, we fly - and in a hurry
In the span of the gate and - oh! And - ah!
Oh! And in open eyes
Spaces brilliant scope,
Space sea exclamation!

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