How did this happen?
Back in the winter, while discussing possible options for a summer vacation with my family, a crazy thought suddenly popped into my head - should I rush to the White Sea? Just like in my youth, with kayaks and menu layout... The children have already grown up, and there seem to be no restrictions. Immediately, a BUT arose... a lot of time has passed since then, we have already become accustomed to the comfort of hotels and European campsites when traveling, we have not been students for a long time...
On the other hand, my husband and I are huge fans of the nature of the North. We’ve already been there twice, and we still want to go there again and again – it’s some kind of obsession. But this time we had reasonable fears that our desires would not coincide with our capabilities, because the crisis...
On the third hand, going on a hike to the White Sea with four of us (only family) was also somehow not calm. You never know... It’s clear that it’s calmer and more fun to experience hardships and endure hardships together with a company of like-minded enthusiasts. And lo and behold! — quite by accident, while celebrating our friend’s birthday in the month of May, we infected this very friend’s friends with the idea of going on a hike to the White Sea, who, without thinking for long - we must give them their due - gave their positive answer, which became the BEGINNING - the beginning our unforgettable trip to the White and Barents Seas in the summer of 2016.
Initially, we planned this: we drive by car to the Chupinskaya Bay of the White Sea, leave the car in Chupa, collect kayaks/launch a motorboat and go to the islands with tents. Let's enjoy island romance for up to 10 days (as it goes). We return, leave the trailer with the motorboat in Chupa and then on to the Barents Sea (a big question). Or immediately towards the house with a stop at the monasteries of Belozerye, Vologda region.
The route actually turned out like this:
07/14/2016 – departure from Moscow through the village of Pravdinsky (we pick up part of the group) – Pudozh (Vologda region): highways E115-M8-A119;
07/15/2016 – Pudozh – Chupa – Nizhnyaya Pulonga (Republic of Karelia): highways A119 – E105;
07/16/2016 – Lower Pulonga (parking on the seashore)
07/17/2016 – Nizhnyaya Pulonga – Sidorov Island (Chupinskaya Bay of the White Sea);
07/18/2016 – 07/24/2016 – Sidorov Island with adjacent islands;
07/24/2016 – Sidorov Island – Nizhnyaya Pulonga – Chupa – Zelenoborsky village: highway E105;
07/25/2016 – Zelenoborsky village – Loparskaya village (Murmansk region): highway – E105;
07/26/2016 – Loparskaya village – TerIberka village (Barents Sea): highway E105 – “Serebryanskaya road”;
07/27/2016 - Teriberka village;
07/28/2016 – Teriberka village – Murmansk-Chupa – outskirts of Loukhi (Republic of Karelia): “Serebryanskaya road” – E105;
07/29/2016 – Loukhi–Sundozero (surroundings of the Kivach waterfall): highway E105;
07/30/2016 – Sundozero–Staraya Ladoga–Edrovo village: highway E105;
07/31/2016 – village Edrovo-village. Pravdinsky-Moscow.
A total of about 4,700 km (as always, at the end of the trip they forgot to look at the speedometer, only remembered a couple of days later).
Our glorious group
consisted of 8 people: two of our grown-up boys (14 and 10 years old), two, now also our, friends - Seryoga and Kostya, our uncle - Lev Alexandrovich (Uncle Lev), Ella and I with my husband (well known to the regulars of this site).
It turned out to be two full-fledged car crews: the guys, uncle, Ella - in a BMW with a trailer and a motor boat
and we are on a Padzherik with two kayaks (“kopeck piece” and “three piece”).
By the way, a trailer with a boat turned out to be extremely indispensable in terms of transporting bulky, not very heavy things.
Planning the trip went very smoothly and without any stress. We roughly determined what we would definitely NOT take from food (for example, canned fish, because we were planning a fishing trip - it turns out that this is a bad omen, any fisherman will say - ha ha!; powdered eggs, because the motorboat allowed us to take much more weight and volume - instead they planned real chicken eggs, etc.); I found a method on the Internet on how to calculate food for a group for the number of days, adjusted it together and jointly distributed something to someone to buy - fortunately, the Internet allows you to communicate online in groups.
Then they were distributed according to their interests: doctors - formed a first aid kit, fishermen - fishing rods and a smokehouse, tourists - all kinds of pots and other utensils, in general, somehow everything logically decomposed by itself. Don’t forget: sources of electricity and wet wipes - after all, we planned to live like Robinsons for 10 days!
The start was planned for Thursday - in order to avoid the crush at the exit from Moscow (as happens on Saturdays). As I already wrote, we met in the village of Pravdinsky (30 km from the Moscow Ring Road along Yaroslavka) - the location of our uncle’s dacha. Seryoga and Kostya also came there. As a result, after all the moving and shaking of the cargo between the cars and the trailer with the boat, we left at about 11.30.
Of course, it is possible and, as was confirmed on the way back, it would be better to take the E105, i.e. via Tver-V. Volochek-Ladoga-Petrozavodsk-Murmansk (Kostya warned us!), but we planned to move along Yaroslavka, because in terms of mileage it turned out to be shorter, a little bit; Well, my uncle’s carriage had to be picked up along the way.
The first stop for the night is in the city of Pudozh, just over 900 km from Moscow. Guest house “Natalia’s” is right on the highway (I booked it through Booking in advance, because in these places impromptu experiences are not advisable). Dear hosts, ideal for an overnight stay. The road to Pudozh did not upset us at all; we drove quite briskly, despite the narrowness of the road, a trailer with a boat and a kayak on the roof. But the next day, when we moved on, literally immediately, at the exit from Pudozh, road repairs began with constant reversals, and this lasted about 40-50 kilometers. As a result, we simply spent a lot of time and, it seems to me, the nerves of the drivers on this section of the road.
We finally arrived in Chupa at about 17.00, a local resident was already waiting for us, with whom we had previously agreed to leave the cars in his garage.
Absolutely amazing people, those who live in the northern latitudes: simple, open, reliable, terribly colorful, with excellent humor - the list can be endless. It’s simply amazing for us, residents of megacities, it turns out that you can leave the keys to the garage with the cars under the floor mat, and then take the cars without the owner and leave money for the stay (“as much as you think..”), and nothing bad will happen - neither with cars, not with money! “They don’t pamper us,” explained Anatoly Nikolaevich.
Our plan was this: we unload the cars, part of the belongings into Anatoly Nikolaevich’s Gazelle, which takes us to Nizhnyaya Pulonga (about 15 km, i.e. as close as possible to our goal - Sidorov Island), and the guys, with the help of Anatoly’s son Nikolaevich on the L-200 launches the boat in Chupa and goes to Pulonga by sea. The cars are in the garage, the trailer is next to the garage.
We bought what we needed to buy at the general store and headed to the place. While we were driving with Anatoly Nikolaevich, for about 20 minutes, no more, my youngest child picked up an infectious expression from him for the entire trip: “Fuck and beat; neither sit down nor stand up.” What it is? How indecent is this, or maybe not? None of us really know. But it is still with us. This is the local, memorable flavor.
We spent the night in a parking lot near Nizhnyaya Pulonga.
In the morning the weather deteriorated, a strong wind blew, it began to rain, we decided not to risk it, to wait a little. We moved the camp to a quieter place, which had just become vacant, collected canoes, berries and mushrooms, in general, immersed ourselves and partook...
The next day the rain stopped, but the wind was quite strong. Still, we decided to move on to Sidorov, especially since tourists were constantly arriving and there was concern that parking on the island might be bad.
We had to walk about 24 km through the water of the Chupinskaya Bay. The guys went out earlier to find a parking lot - on a motorboat, we - slowly, on canoes, getting used to rowing and each other with oars, and even a small wave / side wind forced us to level the boats all the time (since without rudders) and a little nervous. The guys, meanwhile, having set up camp, prepared food for the team and managed to provide us with insurance on the approaches to Sidorov, so everything turned out great!
So, we took a luxurious parking lot - equipped, nearby - no one in sight, chic-brilliance-beauty! We were happy all evening!
Sidorov Island is very beautiful and diverse in its nature. Big enough. The shape is “made” in the shape of a butterfly.
A favorite place for a day out for a variety of tourists: catamaran sailors (they predominate), kayakers and kayakers, who often come here after rafting from nearby rivers (Keret, for example). There are rocks, and forest, and swamps, and sandy beaches, which at low tide stretch an incredible distance, and mosses with lichens, and boletus mushrooms, and russula, and blueberries, and starfish at low tide, and... , And…
A beautiful and very grateful island!
As it turned out, fish in the vicinity of Sidorov is also found in sufficient quantities. We caught cod. With pleasure and without fanaticism. They smoked it, made soup, fried it in batter - delicious!! Thanks to our brave fishermen!
What did you do? Yes, they were doing something all the time - they didn’t sit idle. We went fishing, of course. We made radial trips on canoes to Shevrukha Island, to the Keret River,
swam around Sidorov.
We were engaged in gathering, walking, swimming - you won’t believe it!! Moreover, they swam for real and for a long time, and this was in the White Sea!
The weather was just great! Sunny, warm, no rain.
However, the forecast warned us that on July 24 the weather would begin to deteriorate, and we decided to turn around on the 24th in order to calmly walk to Pulonga and move further towards TerIberka (Barents Sea).
And so they did. We calmly reached Pulonga, dried out (there was heavy rain at night), packed up and, with the help of another local resident, reached Chupa on a “loaf”.
We left the trailer with the boat in the yard of Anatoly Nikolaevich’s house, under the supervision of Nadezhda, his wife, and rushed to the village of Zelenoborskoye (about 90 km from Chupa), where we had booked a cottage the day before (the same glorious Booking with which we contacted via the Internet O. Sidorov!! Could such a thing be imagined even 10 years ago!?).
The cottage turned out to be part of some former departmental recreation center on the shore of a beautiful lake, which was bought by local businessmen and put in order. I was especially struck by how lovingly the interior of the house was decorated: with crafts made from simple, simple things, but very soulfully and tastefully.
The next day - we are moving towards the Kola Peninsula, the goal is Loparskaya. Here Seryoga’s childhood friend has a country house, where he hospitably let us in. Special thanks to!
Landscapes and air temperatures are changing before our eyes: the trees are becoming rarer and shorter, the air is getting colder, it is becoming cloudy, gloomy, and cold rain is beginning to drizzle.
It would seem that the White Sea is already the Arctic Circle and beyond, already the North, but NO! And the difference is only about 200-300 km! But where it’s really not friendly and harsh is on Kola. But there is so much natural, proud BEAUTY in this! It takes your breath away almost all the time.
The house we were kindly allowed into was located not far from Murmansk, on the Kola River. The Kola River - from the Finno-Ugric "kuljok" - fish river. It turns out that one of the largest stocks of Atlantic salmon spawns in it! And in terms of the size of individuals, this river is perhaps the most outstanding in the world (source: “Answers.mail.ru”).
Well, of course, our fishermen did not stand aside, they purchased a fishing license (by the way, its price varies: for locals - one, for Russians from other regions - another (we paid 2,200 thousand per day, if I’m not mistaken), for foreigners – the third – the highest, logically).
The guide proudly told us that the Danish Prince had come here - attention! or Norwegian!, for fishing, his photo and a photo of the salmon (or salmon?) that he caught were immediately shown. Inspires. Well, there was no reason not to believe, he probably came.
But... luck, unfortunately, did not smile on us. For a long time, our fishermen cast their fishing rods, changed positions along the river, jumped from stone to stone... The fish brazenly splashed along the opposite bank and did not come towards us. Local fishermen, who, by the way, also had no catches, attributed this bad luck to the fact that the water in the river was unusually warm at this time of year, and the fish were not active in such conditions. Don't know. In any case, the guys, it seems to me, did everything possible.
And finally, our last move forward is the village of TerIberka. In fact, this is the edge of the Earth. The coast of the Barents Sea, read the Arctic Ocean.
I found out about this place quite by accident, I received an email from TripAdvisor, followed the link, and... the photos that were posted took my breath away. The idea of visiting here is firmly ingrained in my brain. Secretly from everyone, I booked an apartment in Teriberka through Irnbyanby from July 26 to 28. In the end, I thought, what if it works?! And to hell with the money, if anything. But the dream came true - everything turned out exactly as it should have.
So. The hostess warned us in advance that the last gas station would be near Murmansk, to fill the tank full. The road from the Murmansk highway is about 120 km, of which 40 km to Teriberka is a dirt road - a very “interesting” road (my husband had a flat tire).
Teriberka is the place, if anyone doesn’t know, where the sensational film “Leviathan” was filmed not so long ago. This has recently attracted tourists here. None of us had seen this film (and as it turned out later, we didn’t lose anything!), so we were attracted here solely by the beauty of nature, which we saw in the photos posted on the Internet, and my enthusiastic oh-ahs.
We must pay tribute that the expectations were fully justified and even more. The weather, however, was deteriorating, it was getting colder, and it was raining every now and then, however, the beauty of these places more than compensated for all these little things.
When we stood on the rocks and looked at the turquoise sea around, the outlines of the islands on the horizon, the sky that lay almost on our heads, many of us had only one thought in our heads: this is not the end of the Earth, this is the top of the World! One of... You should definitely visit here at least once in your life!
And the two most restless members of our team still had unrealized ideas: Sasha did not disassemble the canoe in order to go out on it in the Barents Sea, which filled me with awe - but can you stop it?, and Seryoga carried with him a neoprene suit with a mask and flippers to swim and appreciate the underwater world of the Barents Sea (he has already appreciated the White Sea).
Imagine, 13 degrees in the air (I don’t know about the water, but it’s almost icy), windy, periodically drizzling, everyone has 4 layers of clothing, no less; caps on their heads, etc., and our two went out to sea.
It’s very funny, as I was jumping on the shore waiting for my husband to come back from swimming, a woman came up to me, who was also expecting her husband, who (the law of paired cases) was also snorkeling, like our Seryoga, and asked what Sasha was doing on a kayak in the Barents Sea? “Why is he hanging around? Is it scaring off killer whales?” (from Seryoga, who was swimming along the shore) - but she asked in all seriousness.
Indeed, both killer whales and beluga whales, according to local residents, often enter these bays. We were even lucky to see them from afar...
On July 28, we set out back, stopping on the way to Murmansk, the city of military glory. We examined the Alyosha memorial,
view of the Kola Bay.
But our plan was not destined to come true. On the way from Chupa, the guys found out that something was wrong with the trailer. We stopped, took it apart,
We realized that this trailer couldn’t go any further, some important bearing was damaged (sorry, I’m reporting it as I understand it). And then the fun began. We are standing a little away from the highway, in the clear tundra, there is no mobile communication, you can’t leave the boat on the road and there is nothing to carry it with, but the guys made it themselves, with their own hands - the situation is not fun, to put it mildly! What to do? Guard!
It’s crazy, somewhere in another country, people would probably wait until the blue beard for a tow truck, but NOT WITH US! Not with our inventive and handy men.
We managed to remove the part - thanks to the truck driver, who gave us some kind of unique key, then - take the part to the nearest town of Loukhi (about 50 km one way), give it to local craftsmen, who, with the help of swear words and some simple technical equipment, devices miraculously crossed a part from a “nine” with a part from a German trailer. We were told that a rare motorist, an unprintable word, drives past these Loukhy without loss, which is why they, in Loukhy, have car repair shops on every corner.
As a result, we spent the night here, on the highway,
in the cars, I really didn’t want to pitch tents - especially since we had already dried them, and clouds were just moving across the sky.
The next day, we still had to stop by Kem, as something in the trailer had not fully grown together. There they very quickly changed something again, and in the meantime we had a snack in a wonderful restaurant overlooking the sea and the place where the river flows into it, after which we moved on. Again, on the way, we booked a wonderful modern cottage at the Shishki recreation center on Sundozer, which we got to around midnight.
In the morning, it would have been a sin not to visit the Kivach waterfall,
which was located about 15 km and slightly to the side of our highway. We were unpleasantly surprised that there is now an entrance to the waterfall! paid, whereas we were there about 7 years ago, and everything was free, as it should be, in my opinion. And here I immediately remember the unforgettable Ostap Bender with Proval. Somehow you feel deceived, honestly.
Well, that seems to be all. In Lodeynoye Pole, my uncle and Ella were dropped off at the railway station, they should go to St. Petersburg, continue their vacation - happy!, and we - through Staraya Ladoga, on the St. Petersburg - Moscow highway to Moscow.
On the way, we spent the night in the village of Edrovo in a motel built for truckers. An absolutely cool option, unexpectedly for me - a good level of service and low cost of accommodation and services. To my joy, they even sent me my favorite sweater from there, which I had forgotten, by mail, without any problems and very kindly.
This is such a wonderful story for us. All my dreams and ideas (I hope everyone else’s too) came true. We have also made new wonderful friends, which makes us absolutely happy.
I would like to say THANK YOU to the whole team once again, and see you on new trips.
Most recently, I published reports about a trip to.
After my first visit to the park in 2014, I was amazed by the beauty of the nature of the Arkhangelsk region, as well as the presence of a large number of architectural monuments of past centuries.
I decided to study the material in more detail... So I came up with the idea of driving a car to the White Sea along the Onega River.
Once upon a time, a large land route passed through these places, which connected the coastal White Sea regions with the center of Rus'. There was also heavy shipping traffic on the Onega River, which connected the Volga with the sea. Life here was in full swing: cities and villages were located on the banks, temples were built and trade was going on. Since then, from the point of view of life and the lives of people, little has changed there...
The road to the southern coast of the White Sea from St. Petersburg is interesting, in places (to put it mildly) not of very high quality and rich in attractions. My route looked something like this:
Small turn-offs and entrances are not shown, and dirt roads are highlighted in orange.
Along its entire length in the Leningrad, Vologda, Arkhangelsk regions and the Republic of Karelia, there are beautiful villages and unique ancient monuments in picturesque and secluded places.
I start along the Murmansk highway and in the Lodeynoye Pole area I turn towards Vytegra. Near the city of Podporozhye there are a number of unique objects that are united in the so-called “Wooden Ring”.
On the border of the Leningrad and Vologda regions, the road becomes unpaved. In dry weather, driving on it (if you don't mind shaking) is quite possible. In rainy weather it turns into a real hell, or rather a swamp. Dirt covers all the cars in a dense layer, trucks “fold” on inclines, overtaking is in principle allowed, but practically impossible or extreme, the speed is 20-40 km/h. The dirty mess swallows up the Zhiguli by almost a third, and holes the size of a Kamaz hide in the puddles. In two words - an exciting attraction!
Before Vytegra, I pass the village of Paltoga. There are two churches right next to the road. Wooden - Epiphany of the Lord (1733) and stone - icon of the Mother of God "The Sign" (1810). Together they form the inactive temple complex of the Paltoga churchyard.
You can stop, walk through the ruins and see how the monument of wooden architecture is being restored (for now only).
At the entrance to the city of Vytegra, the dead shoulder is better than the main road. I wonder if the mayor of this small town in the Vologda region (if it exists) often goes there? I pass the gateway, and outside the city is the treasured Federal Highway. Speed up as far as your conscience allows... and money :)
Somewhere on the left hand there remains a geological natural monument - Mount Andoma, rising 85 meters above Lake Onega. But I don’t have time to go there. Before reaching Pudozh I turn towards the Samina River.
On its banks is the village of Saminsky Pogost, the tallest building of which is the Church of Elijah the Prophet (ca. 1700).
Quite recently, the Church of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God stood nearby. Now it lies side by side in the form of separate fragments - a sad sight. Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever... every year there are fewer and fewer such unique monuments.
The time is approaching sunset, and evening fishing begins on the wooden bridge.
The dogs, sensing a stranger, are trying to drive me away from the Vologda land, and the village children, standing dumbfounded by the road, follow me with their eyes.
There are still dozens of kilometers of dirt road ahead. Despite the white nights, driving on such roads at dusk is not very comfortable.
Taking a course towards Kargopol in Pudozh and making a stop at the Vodla River,
I ended up in the Karelian villages of Ust-Reka and Pogost.
They are located on Lake Kolodozero. On the cape you can see the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Even being wooden, it seems somehow modern. And this impression is not deceptive. Construction time: 21st century.
The sun went below the horizon. The partial moon periodically peeks out from behind the clouds. Fish splash loudly in the lake.
The bathhouses and sheds gradually dissolve in the fog, and the village youth on motorcycles, apparently, went to the "disco".
The rest of the residents are getting ready for bed. But I have plans to get to the Arkhangelsk region - there are some 15 kilometers left. At the border of the regions, the asphalt is replaced by a serpentine dirt road - it’s good that I already know the road.
As you pass the turn to Morshchikhinskaya, impressions of the visit pop up in your head. A year has passed since then, but it seems like it was yesterday. On the opposite bank of Leksmoser you can see the already familiar silhouette of the Church of the Apostles Peter and Paul
After some time, I turn onto an overgrown forest road and check the map several times in the dark. Another 5 kilometers through fog-covered fields and dense forests and a wooden giant appeared above the treetops.
For many kilometers there is no one around... In the twilight of the night, surrounded by fog, stands the ghost of the Saint Michael's Church. An impressive and mystical spectacle that will take your breath away.
Once upon a time there was a village here, and now it is the Krasnaya Lyaga tract, next to which there are a dozen more abandoned villages. I wonder how long this magnificent monument will stand in such an environment?
A couple of hours later I already meet the dawn near Kargopol in the village of Saunino. The sun barely breaks through the clouds of a cyclone approaching from the south.
The only path along the pond is surrounded by tall grass covered in dew. I make my way along it to find a good point for shooting, because on the opposite bank there is a business card of Saunino - the Church of St. John Chrysostom (1665).
I also have the village of Oshevenskoye in my plans, so I won’t stay here for long, but rather compete in speed on a dirt road with an atmospheric front.
But more on that in the next part...
To Arkhangelsk? - Hoping that I simply did not hear the editor-in-chief’s proposal, I still expected a favorable outcome to the telephone conversation.
“Old man, but this is cool - take it for a ride, show the car in the provinces. Can you imagine what such a baby will look like on the banks of the Northern Dvina? And at the same time, see if this Ford can be driven on our roads.” It was hard to imagine...
Running the Moscow-Arkhangelsk route and back is a serious journey. And it’s not a matter of distance at all, but of roads and gasoline. What about the car? Honestly, if the boss had offered to drive a very ordinary Zhiguli, the task would have looked simpler... The guys brought our “ladybug” on wheels from Prague - they said it was for a long test. The test, especially the longer one, is, of course, great. But to trudge so far, to the North, on the eve of December...
In order not to look like complete adventurers, we decided to go in two cars. The editorial Land Rover Discovery was chosen as a support vehicle and at the same time as a technical technician. This car has a 2.5-liter turbocharger, which in our case turned out to be very useful. We loaded the Discovery with a dozen 20-liter cans (after all, Ford, equipped with a catalyst, is firmly on an unleaded diet, and of course there was no confidence that we would be able to get such gasoline) and for it, just in case, a set of winter 13 -inch studded wheels - after all, we are going to the North.
The question of why we dragged ourselves to such a distance, and even in a more than frivolous vehicle, was asked to us everywhere. We didn’t want to answer that we had an eccentric boss, and so we opened a reference book called “Car and motorcycle tourist routes”, published in Moscow in 1990 (this is the only reference publication from which we were able to glean at least some information about upcoming route), and read the correct answer there. It turns out that we were driven by “...the desire to know our country, learn new things about its history and see the results of socialist construction.”
Looking ahead, let's say that the first characteristic results of “construction” met us on the second day of the journey.
ONE NIGHT BEHIND
“Where is my black-eyed one, where...” Of course, in Vologda! It was in this ancient city that we made our first stop.
The narrow and very unpleasant bypass road around Rostov the Great and Pereslavl-Zalessky did its job: we were unable to complete the first section of the route during daylight hours. And thank God. We realized this the next morning, when, full of enthusiasm, we left the hotel parking lot and went to look for the road to Arkhangelsk. We caused quite a stir in the city: people turned their heads, pointed their fingers at us, and the local “dark-eyed” people broke into such smiles that their right leg involuntarily reached for the brake. We refuel at a real European gas station (as it turned out later, for the last time), give a series of quick interviews to local car enthusiasts - and off we go.
The roads spoiled us for another two hundred kilometers with the possibility of comfortable movement at a fairly high average speed. As we expected, soon the coverage began to slowly “end”. True, after a hundred kilometers the road again began to resemble a normal highway. In the area from Vologda to Velsk, such an alternation was observed several times.
By mid-afternoon the landscapes around us began to darken. Here are the signs of “socialist construction”: completely extinct villages that have lost even their names, black houses rickety from time to time, dilapidated wooden churches... You can drive hundreds of kilometers and come across, at best, a decrepit postal van. Passenger cars are generally rare here. You can judge the habitability of these places only by the old women living out their days who light fires along the highway and try to sell a bucket of cranberries to visiting truckers. The impression is terrible.
It's getting dark and we slow down. Discovery is moving confidently, but Ford is beginning to demonstrate its urban character - breakdowns in the suspension are becoming more frequent. In general, we feared most of all for the running gear of the “baby” - in combination with small tires, it was not at all conducive to active driving on bad roads. The wheels hit the sharp edges of the pits several times, but, fortunately, there was no damage. So we cannot highly evaluate the performance of the suspension in these conditions, but you must agree: it is impossible to strongly criticize a European city car for its inability to cope with the “autobahns” of the Russian outback - this is not its element. The car handles hard bumps, joints and small potholes in the surface well, but on waves it sways terribly. Several times, falling into resonance, the car literally “flew up” above the road, completely unloading the suspension and even hanging the wheels. The feeling of free flight, I must say, is not a pleasant one. Surprisingly, despite the shaking, the stock CD player installed in the cabin felt great and worked without problems.
Apart from annoying reactions to road irregularities, the Ford Ka behaves superbly at high speeds - it does not tire with excessively sharp reactions, does not require the first steering, does not make noise, does not whistle. It’s like driving a car two classes higher.
The Ford Ka demonstrated a moderate temperament - the engine has a very smooth traction characteristic. There are no complaints, but due to the lack of pickup in the high speed zone, it is sometimes not very convenient to overtake: you engage fourth, but there is no desired jerk. Frankly, we expected more from a 1.3-liter engine (and even considering the relatively light weight of the car).
However, it is quite possible that a city car does not need excessive agility. More important are other advantages, for example, the absence of noise from the engine, which we note with joy.
I really liked the handling. Unfamiliar road, high speed, potholes. Turns sometimes had to be taken on the verge of sliding. Ford showed himself to be great! Comfortable sensitivity, smooth reactions... Turn the steering wheel, and with a sharp throw to the side the car goes around the obstacle without a single hint of loss of stability. Ford Ka in general very reliably demonstrated a slight hint of roll; the Ka, as if glued to the coating, “writes” a given radius. Sometimes it seems that the rear axle is about to skid. But no! The car slides smoothly with all four wheels to the outside of the turn.
We also want to mention the brakes. They are accurate, predictable and have truly “ladylike” pedal effort.
Aerodynamics presented an interesting surprise on the road! When driving at high (110-120 km/h) speeds, the car showed itself to be a real cleaner: the windshield and headlights were almost not splashed with dirt. But after a trip around the city I had to leave the salon and work as a rag.
Driving for a long time in complete darkness gives us the right to criticize the instrument cluster, or rather, its illumination. The poisonous yellow-green spot in front of my eyes irritated me beyond measure.
There were no major complaints about the governing bodies. It is worth noting only the too “abstruse” windshield wiper control algorithm and unclear engagement of reverse gear.
Curiosities of the NORTHERN REGION
In Arkhangelsk there is a problem with hotels, and with hotels that have guarded parking lots there is a problem squared. You understand, I didn’t want to leave a Land Rover on the street, much less a Ford. As the practice of car business trips shows, in such situations you need to contact the doorman.
After carefully listening to our concerns about the safety of the cars parked under the windows, the helpful uncle said: “No, guys, it’s calm here, they don’t steal. Recently, however, a Volvo was blown up at the entrance, but it was so quiet.” For 50,000 rubles, the witness of the explosion promised to keep an eye on our cars. It worked out.
Twenty-four kilometers from Arkhangelsk, on the right bank of the Northern Dvina, is the settlement of Malye Karely. This is a museum of northern wooden architecture. It's hard to think of a better place for photography. But we had no idea that another surprise awaited us here. The museum was open and everything was open. Moreover, the bad weather did not contribute to the influx of visitors - and we were alone here.
“Filming on the territory of the museum costs 300,000 rubles,” the phrase of the female administrator sounded like a sentence. We found the money, but... None of us could remember a case where we had to pay that kind of money for the right to photograph a car.
It is difficult to travel on such a long journey without communicating with traffic cops. And the provincial law enforcement officers surprised us more than once.
Post near Velsk. Verification of documents. We “sniffed” the Ford, asked where we were going and why, and seemed to be about to let us go, when a young warrant officer suddenly unexpectedly asked to sell (sell!) him the CB radios lying in our cars, which we use if we are walking in a convoy. It's hard for them, apparently, without communication.
We unwittingly provoked the second meeting with the traffic police ourselves: we got caught for speeding. Twenty thousand rubles are safely transferred into the pocket of the gloomy lieutenant (he did not want to be inspired by the idea of a test rally and forgive us for the violation). And just as we were about to drive on, the bribe-taker’s colleagues appeared at our cars: “Guys, what a cool car! What are you, journalists? From Moscow?" The friendly conversation ended with the distribution of the latest issues of Autoreview. But it so happened that on the way back they stopped us again.
Do you think it’s for excess again? Not so! We drove strictly according to the rules! It turns out that these guys saw a story on local television with a story about the race and our “ladybug”. Well, there is no need to explain what a meeting with a person from the “box” means for them. They were just waiting for us and slowed down to chitchat “for life” once again. Now there was no need to make excuses and put on innocent faces. “Is there no way to return the fine from the day before yesterday?” - the answer was a nod towards the police “goat”, where the lieutenant, who had been left without newspapers and stories about the unusual “Ford”, sat dejectedly.
And at the exit picket from Arkhangelsk, the traffic cops upset us: “This Ford Ka of yours will not pass along the bypass road - you’ll get stuck. But if you want to do real testing, go for it.” The slight shock gave way to curiosity. First, how did they know the make of the car? Secondly, how do they know about the tests? “So, guys, I read the newspapers,” perceiving our confusion, the sergeant breaks into a kind smile and takes out the latest issue of Pravda Sever from his pocket. A note about our trip in the regional newspaper was prepared overnight!
There were also plenty of oddities regarding toponymy. I was very amused, for example, by the roadside cafe Santa Barbara. The Chacha River and the village with the seductive name Bukhalovo inspired thoughts of...
In general, everything was great. Whether it was luck or not, we managed to drive this city “baby” to the shore of the North Sea and return back without breakdowns or incidents. Despite the disgusting roads and high average speed, the Ford Ka passed this test and, being completely unprepared for such raids, still managed to provide us with a decent level of comfort.
And yet, as the only family car that can be used to get to work, to see your mother-in-law for pancakes, and on vacation in Sochi, we would hardly recommend such a little thing. But as an exclusively urban vehicle, it’s fine. However, it is unlikely that the Ford Ka will be sold in Russia through a network of official dealers. For now they're focusing on the Escort and Mondeo models, and that's probably right.
Yes, we almost forgot - fuel consumption! Taking into account constant driving at the maximum possible speed (according to comfort and road conditions), it amounted to about 8 liters per hundred.
Kandalaksha Bay in early June website
Along the red road along the shore of the White Sea to Varzuga.
The Kola Peninsula is located between two seas - the Barents and White, and if the northern coast, washed by the Arctic Ocean, is harsh and deserted, then the southern coast is much more hospitable and full of not only natural, but also historical attractions. During a two-day car excursion along the shore of the White Sea, we will drive along the famous red road, visit the northernmost desert in Russia, see the high wooden tents of the churches of the village of Varzuga, founded in the 15th century, and while spending the night on the seashore, we will feast on salmon fish soup, which we will prepare ourselves . The total excursion route will be almost 600 km.
First day: Kirovsk -> Boat Creek (White Sea)
A two-day car excursion along the White Sea coast with a visit to mysterious labyrinths, the ancient village of Varzuga, amethyst mines and the northern desert is part of a week-long ecological and ethnographic tour from the Nord Stone company and is the logical conclusion of an adventure on the Kola Peninsula in the “without backpacks” format.
After excursions around the center of the Murmansk region in Khibiny, we will go with you on a journey along the Tersky coast of the Kola Peninsula. We leave early in the morning from Kirovsk and our first stop will be the intersection of the Murmansk - St. Petersburg highway with the drainage canal from the Kola Nuclear Power Plant. Kola station, the first nuclear power plant built in the USSR beyond the Arctic Circle, near the village of Zasheyek. The launch of the first unit of the station took place in June 1973 and since then the Kola Nuclear Power Plant has been regularly supplying the Murmansk region with electricity, which makes us especially happy during the long polar night!
Having turned off the highway and passed Kandalaksha, we will stop for a photo shoot on a high observation deck above the Kandalaksha Bay of the White Sea. Kandalaksha was first mentioned in chronicles in 1517 and as one of the outposts of the Russian state and Orthodoxy more than once repelled the attacks of adversaries, so at the end of the 16th century the residents and monks of the Kokuev monastery fought with Swedish and Finnish troops. In 1855, during the Crimean War, Kandalaksha fought off an attack by the British. Nowadays the city is a large railway junction on the shores of the White Sea. The film “Cuckoo” was filmed near Kandalaksha, and we visited the place where the mystical fragments were filmed during a mountain excursion in the Khibiny Mountains.
What else is Kandalaksha famous for? Not only because students come here every year to visit the White Sea Biological Station of Moscow State University, but also because it is one of the three well-preserved mysterious Babylon labyrinths on the Kola Peninsula. Who created them, why and for what unknown purpose, experts and old-timers have different opinions, but it’s definitely worth visiting here, in case you discover the secret mystery of these ancient megaliths, distributed throughout the northern coast of Europe? It is believed that the age of the labyrinths exceeds 2000 years, but the age of the lichens on the stones of the labyrinth does not exceed 300 years, why would that be? 
After lunch at a picturesque parking lot, we will stop by another ancient Pomeranian village on the White Sea, we are going to Umba! Umba sea, Umba sea, Umba forest. Umba full of smiles, Umba full of brides! Eduard Khil sang in the last century, but we, having visited Umba, will move to cross the Arctic Circle. For the convenience of travelers, the crossing is marked with a special stop, where a memorable photograph will be taken, and all participants are given the title “Crossing the Arctic Circle”. So we left the Arctic, because the parallel of the Arctic Circle limits the line above which there are both polar day and polar night.
After the village of Olenitsa, where the White Sea flyers - a local stone souvenir - are born, the asphalt surface will end and we will drive onto the famous red road. Moving along the seashore, we will head east towards the village of Kashkarantsy, famous for the fact that this village belonged to the legendary Novgorod boyar Marfa Posadnitsa. In general, the entire Tersky coast, the name of which comes from the word “Tre”, is a forest, that is, the forest coast was the patrimony of the Novgorod veche republic. And Kashkarantsy will be remembered by us for the wooden church of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God and the high striped lighthouse.
It’s already evening and we need to hurry to spend the night, but on the way we will visit another shrine - the chapel of the Venerable Nameless Monk of Terek. The story here was complicated, either the fishermen caught someone in the sea, or the fisherman had a vision: “Find and bury,” and then erect a chapel, next to which a holy spring should appear... The matter is old and dark... In In godless times, the chapel was destroyed, but the place was marked with a noticeable cross. Local Pomor fishermen always remembered the true sign that “you will always catch a fish opposite the cross.” In any case, the place is picturesque.
So the first day of the car excursion along the Tersky coast of the White Sea ends, it turned out to be very eventful, we arrived at the mouth of Boat Creek and an evening dinner with salmon fish soup, gatherings by the fire, and maybe for some - a romantic walk along the sea awaits us. shore. During the warm period of the tourist season, overnight stays are organized in tent camping tents, and during cooler periods, in houses at the camp site. You can always use the bathhouse at the parking lot!
Day two: Varzuga -> Kandalaksha -> Kirovsk
After having breakfast at the mouth of Boat Creek, we will go along the tidal strip to the village of Kuzomen, which is translated from Karelian as “spruce cape”. It’s worth visiting Kuzomen not only for a walk along the sea’s edge, but also to visit the sand dunes at the mouth of the Varzuga River. We must say that these sands are man-made and appeared in this world through man’s desire for cleanliness and profit. In the century before last, industrialists of the Tersky Coast mined pearls, caught salmon and cooked salt. The herds of salmon were knocked out - the pearls disappeared, how this is connected - we will tell you during the excursion. To boil down the salt, firewood is needed, so the spruce forests were cut down to the very roots. There are no forests, no grass, the turf that holds the soil is not formed, and the winds have blown away all the humus and under the influence of frost weathering the sandstone that makes up the banks is destroyed and sand is formed. Thus, in a huge blur, a desert appeared with walking pine trees and human skulls blown out of the local cemetery.
Having loaded our camera memory cards with megabytes of digital images, we will head to the most famous village of the Kola Peninsula - Varzuga. According to highbrow scientists, the name Varzuga comes from the Pomeranian name for yarmanka - a cheerful place. When speaking Varzuga, you will always have to use the concept “most”: the oldest village, the largest, the most famous for its wooden architecture. In Varzuga there is the largest complex of wooden churches on the Kola Peninsula. The village was founded in the 15th century, when the monks of the Solovetsky Monastery founded a farmstead here and began catching salmon from the river.
The most famous is the Varzuga Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a 34-meter-high tent created only with an ax and a plane without nails, completed by master Clement in 1674. The church's plan has the shape of an equal-pointed cross and embodies the traditional, along with the “ship”, form of church building.
The foundation of the church, when erected, consisted of a four-walled frame as a central pillar and four pipes adjacent to it. The upper part of the church includes: an eight-walled frame, the tent itself, the base of the dome and the dome-head, crowned with an eight-pointed cross. The temple was decorated with kokoshniks and wooden scales covering the domes. The church stands on the site of an older cemetery church in the village. This is evidenced by the high density of burials discovered during the restoration of the temple in 2004; many remains of Varzju residents show signs of violent death.
By the way, if we are lucky, of course, then on the road from Kuzomeni to Varzuga we will be able to see another mysterious miracle of the Terek coast - a herd of semi-wild horses. There are two main versions of the origin of the horse population on the Terek coast. The first is that horses were imported from Yakutia during Soviet times to strengthen agriculture and as part of the exchange of horse breeding experience. After the collapse of the USSR, the horses immediately somehow went wild and scattered to find reindeer reindeer pasture. What’s strange is that the collective farm “Sprouts of Communism” still exists, but no zealous owner has taken control of the cattle, without ideological management. Are you smart? Quite strange! Well, the second version - this horse has always been and is the local Arctic tarpan, living here since the extinction of mammoths and woolly rhinoceroses!
Meeting at the railway station of Chupa station (train No. 016, arrives at 04:07 at carriage No. 10, sign “White Sea”), group transfer to the Pulonga cottages (17 km). The cottages are located on the shores of the White Sea on the outskirts of the small village of Nizhnyaya Pulonga.
Night meeting of guests, accommodation. Tea in the cottage. Rest after the road.
Breakfast.
Information cocktail. A walk along the seashore - getting to know the area. Tea after a walk. Free time.
Dinner.
Bathhouse on the seashore with a broom and fruit drinks made from wild berries (room by room - 1 hour per room).
Master class on making a souvenir with your own hands.
Welcome dinner on the White Sea.
Breakfast.
Departure to an observation point (groups of 4 people), from where a stunning panorama of numerous forest lakes and the surrounding taiga opens. Everyone will have the opportunity to take unforgettable photographs. Find and take with you beautiful mineral stones from the mine dumps. Walk to Lake Zhemchuzhnoe, swimming, fishing from the shore (June-July), picking mushrooms and berries (August-September). Return to the cottage.
Dinner.
Rest. Picnic on the seashore: smoking fish, forest tea, sandwiches, forest fruit drinks made from lingonberries and cloudberries.
Dinner.
Breakfast.
For extra fee offered:
- Departure by vehicle to the lake for a trip on motor boats between the beautiful rocky shores and islands. For those who are familiar with driving a boat with a motor (if they have the appropriate documents), if desired, instruction and independent control. Those who wish can go fishing. According to weather conditions, swimming, according to the season - berries, mushrooms. Picnic lunch by the fire. Return to the cottage. Dinner. Cost - 1900 rub./person, for a group of 5 people - 9500 rub./group, boat.
For those who are not traveling - a free day with meals at the cottage. In the forest, mushrooms, berries (end of July, August - cloudberries, blueberries; September - lingonberries), fishing for an additional fee (June, July, August, September), independent recreational walking along the White Sea coastline. Nordic walking.
Breakfast.
Boat trip “Algae gives you health.” Algae have greater biological activity than terrestrial plants, as well as medicinal and preventive properties. The route takes place in Chupinskaya Bay around Oleniy Island - one day will seem like a real journey full of impressions and emotions.
Dinner outdoors in hiking conditions.
Catching Laminaria from the sea and then preparing seaweed salad! Return to the cottage.
Dinner.
Breakfast. Dinner. Dinner.
Free time: picking mushrooms and berries (August, September), fishing (June, July, August, September), independent recreational walking along the White Sea coastline. Nordic walking.
Upon request for extra. fee:
- eco-trip to the sea islands on a boat with a climb to a high point, photo stop panoramas - a carpet of seaweed and salty air, stones covered with mosses and trees clinging to the ground from severe trials. Expanses of water, the opportunity to observe wild beluga whales. Lunch by the fire on the seashore with your active participation. (duration from 5 to 8 hours, depending on weather conditions). Return to the cottage. Dinner. Cost - for a group of 5 people or more to nearby sea islands - 1900 rubles / person, = 9500 rubles / boat; 2500 rub./person. to distant islands = 12,500 rubles/boat.
Breakfast.
Free time. Upon request for an additional fee:
- Departure by road to the crossing of the Arctic Circle (60 km) - a souvenir photo at the stele. Cost - 1200 rub./person = 4800 rub. /group.
The journey will continue to the rapids Keret River with tea under the seething streams. Tea. On the way back home, stop in the village. Chupa to the Valitov Stone Museum, where an interesting story about local minerals and more awaits. Opportunity to purchase souvenirs made of stone. Return to the cottage.
A master class on baking Karelian wickets, those interested can see the whole process from start to finish, try their hand and practice their skills.
Dinner.
Presentation of diplomas on crossing the Arctic Circle for those who crossed it.
Group transfer to the Chupa railway station at 01:00 for night train No. 015, departure at 03:35.
Reviews from tourists 1/7
Christina
A trip to the White Sea is a fantastic vacation! Pulonga Cottage is the place where the Soul lives: real home comfort awaits you there, delicious breakfasts/lunches/dinners, silence, tranquility, getting to know the nature of Karelia, going out to sea, walking, swimming in the cleanest reservoirs. You definitely won't regret it! ...
A trip to the White Sea is a fantastic vacation! Pulonga Cottage is the place where the Soul lives: real home comfort awaits you there, delicious breakfasts/lunches/dinners, silence, tranquility, getting to know the nature of Karelia, going out to sea, walking, swimming in the cleanest reservoirs. You definitely won't regret it! This vacation will fill you with harmony, give you energy and refresh your thoughts!
All reviews Leave a reviewReviews from tourists 3/7
I loved the trip down to every detail!!! The cottage is cozy, the food is homemade, the owners are charming. A trip to the Khibiny Mountains on ATVs is a storm of emotions. I would like to emphasize the professionalism of the instructor in Khibiny Sergei Shestikhin, the guide at sea Alexey Ievlev and the organizational qualities of Maria Ievleva. Solovki...
I loved the trip down to every detail!!! The cottage is cozy, the food is homemade, the owners are charming. A trip to the Khibiny Mountains on ATVs is a storm of emotions. I would like to emphasize the professionalism of the instructor in Khibiny Sergei Shestikhin, the guide at sea Alexey Ievlev and the organizational qualities of Maria Ievleva. Solovki was somewhat confusing with its worldly organization (no hints that you were in a Holy place), but overall it was very interesting! The only not very pleasant moment was that the crew of the steamer "Vasily Kosyakov" recruited more people than the limit, while there were no life jackets in sight... and since we were caught in a very strong storm and 80% of the passengers were seasick... It was strange that no packages were prepared for this eventuality, although the team, of course, knew about the storm warning.
All reviews Leave a reviewReviews from tourists 5/7
Koloskov Evgeniy
I was on holiday with my family in Pulong. I liked everything, the vacation turned out to be very interesting and memorable. The White Sea is a must-see. I won’t retell everything, just come there - you won’t regret it! The food was very tasty, for which special thanks to Olga Nikolaevna. My favorite thing about excursions...
I was on holiday with my family in Pulong. I liked everything, the vacation turned out to be very interesting and memorable. The White Sea is a must-see. I won’t retell everything, just come there - you won’t regret it! The food was very tasty, for which special thanks to Olga Nikolaevna. Of the excursions, my favorite was the trip to the beluga whales. In general, in Nilma, as in Pulong, there is something to see. Don't shy away from snorkeling with beluga whales.
All reviews Leave a reviewReviews from tourists 6/7
Koroleva Lyubov Andreevna
Good afternoon I would like to say a huge thank you to Alexey Anatolyevich, Olga Nikolaevna, Alexey Jr. and Ksyusha for a perfectly organized vacation on the shores of the White Sea. It's rare to meet people who love their small homeland so much and make every effort so that their guests see and appreciate...
Good afternoon I would like to say a huge thank you to Alexey Anatolyevich, Olga Nikolaevna, Alexey Jr. and Ksyusha for a perfectly organized vacation on the shores of the White Sea. It’s rare to meet people who love their small homeland so much and make every effort to ensure that their guests see and appreciate all the beauties of this harsh region. The holiday was wonderful, after long walks along the seashore, accompanied by Lana, a real tourist dog, you return to a warm and cozy home, where you always smell of freshly baked bread, where you will be fed delicious dishes, where even cloudy weather is not an obstacle to a good time. A holiday in the Pulonga cottage is a rare opportunity for Karelia for people who are not ready to go hiking with tents and kayaks to touch this beautiful land with their souls. Many thanks to the owners for organizing such a holiday. In just one week, they managed to give me many unforgettable moments - the beauty of nature in the vicinity of the Khetolambina mine, and the first acquaintance with cloudberries, and fishing with the first cod caught, and a meeting with a beluga whale in the wild, and a trip to beluga whales and reindeer living in close proximity to people, and crossing the Arctic Circle, receiving a diploma that is now the envy of all my friends, and boating on big waves. What could be better for a person living in a big city... I think the best proof that the vacation turned out to be amazing is that already on the train on the way home, thoughts began to come to me about what I should take with me next time , what kind of fishing gear to buy, that you need to practice fishing with your dad, at least in the river, that you definitely need to buy rubber boots and a knife for going into the forest for mushrooms, which are apparently invisible there, and don’t forget to return the jar for cloudberry jam that Olga Nikolaevna lent it to me. I hope that next year I will also be able to come to the Pulonga cottage. I'm really looking forward to the next meeting with everyone. Thank you very much for a wonderful vacation, I have never had anything like it in my life!
All reviews Leave a reviewReviews from tourists 7/7
Astashina Svetlana
Hello our dear hosts, Olga Nikolaevna, Alexey Anatolyevich, Alexey and Ksenia! A month and a half has passed, and we still remember the trip to Pulonga. There hasn’t been a day when we haven’t said: Do you remember... This week the child wrote an essay about the forest. I wrote, constantly returning to Pulonga, remembering...
Hello our dear hosts, Olga Nikolaevna, Alexey Anatolyevich, Alexey and Ksenia! A month and a half has passed, and we still remember the trip to Pulonga. There hasn’t been a day when we haven’t said: Do you remember... This week the child wrote an essay about the forest. I wrote, constantly returning to Pulonga, remembering what it was like there. I finished it almost heartbreakingly: I want to go back there again. We’ll probably have to meet him, and ourselves, halfway and come to you again next year. Wait for us, please!
All reviews Leave a reviewIncluded in the price
- accommodation in Pulonga cottages 6 days
- meals according to the program
- walking along the seashore
- boat trip on the boat “Algae gives you health”
- car ride to the observation point
- night meeting and seeing off + group transfer to railway station. Chupa - cottage - railway station Chupa
- picnic on the seashore
- master class on baking gates
- sauna session (1 hour per room)
- diplomas for crossing the Arctic Circle (for those who cross it)
Not included in price
-
train tickets
Moscow - Chupa station and back,
St. Petersburg - Chupa station and back - eco-boat trip to the sea islands - 1900 rub./person (for a group of 5 people or more)
- trip on motor boats on the lake - 1900 rub./person. (for a group of 5 people or more)
- crossing the Arctic Circle (+ personalized Diplomas) with a stop at the rapids Keret River and a visit to the Stone Museum in the village. Chupa - 1200 rub./person (for a group of 4 people or more - by car)
- additional visit to the bathhouse - 1200 rub./hour/4 people, minimum order 2 hours, after 22:00 - 1500 rub./hour.
- if you arrive/depart by other trains - night meeting/seeing off + individual transfer - 1200 rubles/car.
Select accommodation (included in the tour price)
Single occupancy (room with a view of the meadow/forest) rub/person
x1 Adult RUB 29,500
Single occupancy (room with sea view) rub/person
x1 Adult RUB 29,900
Single occupancy (room with fireplace) rub/person
x1 Adult RUB 32,900
No. 2 Double room with fireplace 2nd floor (double bed) rub/person
x2 Adult RUB 24,900
