The end of my two-week trip was a night on the Barents Sea, in the small fishing village of Teriberka. (emphasis on the second syllable!). Why night? Because the bus goes there in the evening, and back in the morning - but the Sun does not set here at this time. Why exactly Teriberka? Because this is the only place on the Russian Barents Sea where you can drive public transport and without a special pass. Even without a pass, you can get to the Rybachy Peninsula closer to Pechenga, but there is no transport there. And several cities on the coast are all ZATOs.
My story about Teriberka will consist of three parts. The first one is about the road there from Murmansk along the real treeless tundra.
The bus schedule from the Capital of the Arctic to Teriberka is quite tricky - they run no more than once a day and not every day. Fortunately, the Murmansk bus station has an official website, so you can plan in advance whether to go there for one or two nights. I decided - for one. The Teribersky bus is, in general, transport "for its own": all passengers and the driver, as a rule, know each other, and go home in the evening.
At first, the road is not impressive ... well, at least if you are not the first time in the Murmansk region. Ordinary Lapland landscapes with hills, undersized forests and countless lakes, which are literally hung over the mountains at different heights. On a hot day off, probably half of the population of Murmansk swam in these lakes.
Half an hour later, on the right hand, the city is clearly visible:
This is the Troika, or Severomorsk-3. And if anyone does not know, Severomorsk is ZATO, the capital of the Northern Fleet. At the entrance - a checkpoint lined with sandbags, a machine gunner. Documents are not checked at the same time, although, they say, earlier a border guard got on the bus and made sure that no one got out. The bus drives into the center of the village, and 3/4 of the passengers get off here:
When I asked fellow travelers what was here, they answered me - "submarine base". Yeah, in a swamp, probably ... As they say on Wikipedia, Severomorsk-3 is a military airfield. He lost most of his garrisons (primarily the missile unit) in 1993, but, apparently, not so few remained.
Behind the "troika" the landscape is gradually changing, the mountains are becoming more and more bald, the earth is becoming more and more rocky:
And about an hour after Murmansk you find yourself in the bare tundra. Here the trees are not burned by industrial emissions, as in Pechenga - here they simply do not have a climate to grow. The air is pristine. An endless wavy surface covered with mosses of two colors - and thousands and thousands of lakes, all at different heights.
In this tundra there is a fork marked with a cross. The asphalt road goes to the village of Tumanny:
And the way to Teriberka looks like this:
The bus slows down to 20 km / h - behind 100 kilometers, ahead 40, but this is still the middle of the road. And while we admire the tundra - for the first time I see it not under the snow:
On a hot day, the tundra vividly resembles the steppe, in some places the landscape is almost Orenburg or Kazakhstani, and reindeer moss is like a thorn. If not for wooden snow retainers:
And it sweeps here notably - in places in mid-July there are spots of snow:
Trees appear again near large lakes - but not for long:
And the citizens of Teriberka, meanwhile, after the "troika" felt freer, and some very special atmosphere was established in the bus - it seemed that all these people were going home from some one common business. I got into a conversation with a man who was driving nearby - he moved from Vladimir, moved to Teriberka a couple of years ago, works there at a fish factory. Is it strange for you, how can you exchange the Middle lane for the End of the World? And it’s not strange for him: northerners live anywhere, if not in the world, then in Russia, but they may not even know that they are northerners ... and then suddenly they accidentally come to the North and stay there forever.
On the other seat was an intelligent middle-aged woman of a completely Moscow look - I would take her for a teacher at a prestigious university or the director of a small company. With her is a guy of about 18 years old, also a perfect Muscovite with a long white hair. She lived in Teriberka under the Soviets, worked at PINRO (Polar Research Institute of Marine Fisheries and Oceanography), populated the king crab in the Barents Sea, and in the hungry years she left for the mainland - now Teriberka is something like a dacha for her, where she was traveling with her son. She told me in plain text that I was not a Muscovite - my dialect was not Moscow.
At the next pass, she simply asked the driver to slow down for 5 minutes, and her son and I went out onto a deserted road to photograph the view that opened up. None of the passengers expressed indignation. All their own, and even go home, there is nowhere to rush ...
The sense of danger disappeared very quickly. Without the slightest fear, I gave the peasant from Vladimir my player, took pictures in both windows and even in front ... This is what is called "The crow will not peck out our eyes from the eye sockets, because there is no crow here."
And the terrain becomes more and more severe and mountainous:
Ahead there is a huge lake stretching for ten kilometers - I have time to think that this is already the Teriberskaya Bay Barents Sea:
But it turns out to be a reservoir - a cascade of three hydroelectric power stations operates on the Teriberka River:
Height difference - 20-30 meters:
But how they work is not clear, there is not the slightest sign of housing nearby. Sometimes cars dusted past on the road, but from the turn to Teriberka itself, I did not see a single settlement. Even abandoned houses on the road came across only two:
Although some kind of life goes on here - here, for example, is a weather station (?) on a hill:
The feeling of approaching the End of the Earth does not leave:
The surface of the Teriberka River is another reservoir, and the hydroelectric power station is only 7 kilometers from the village:
The last 5 kilometers is a fantastic gorge:
Overhead are sheer cliffs that look like weathered faces:
Then the valley widens, you notice pedestrians and cyclists along the edges:
And Teriberka itself appears around the turn of the road:
To be continued...
POLAR DAY-2011
. From Arkhangelsk to the Barents Sea.
Summer Beach (Arkhangelsk and environs).
Arkhangelsk-2011.
Four years ago, the film "Leviathan" by Andrei Zvyagintsev was released on the screens and the world learned about the village of Teriberka, in which the film was partially filmed.
Personally, I only had enough for the first 20 minutes. Too exaggerated reality, clearly aimed at the European audience, for whom the more tinny and dirty, the better.
"But the reality is not the way it is."
In December, we stopped by this Pomeranian village for several hours, I suggest that we walk around and look at it through my eyes.
We rented a car in Murmansk. For a trip to Teriberka, we were ripped off an extra 30% of the total cost - supposedly for depreciation, because. the road is bad.
The road was really not very good, we got into a snow load, drove about 30 kilometers, almost got stuck and turned back to Murmansk, deciding to postpone the trip for another day. Another day came tomorrow and we safely reached the place (left at nine o'clock in the morning, arrived at twelve). 
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Teriberka is located 120 km northeast of Murmansk, on the coast of the Barents Sea and until recently was a closed village due to its proximity to the border. Since 2009, it has been possible to enter Teriberka without special passes. 
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In the European part of Russia, Teriberka is the only place that can be reached by road to see the open Barents Sea and the Arctic Ocean. Thanks to the constant winds, the village is good place for kitesurfing, including winter. 
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Several years ago, the authorities of the Murmansk region hoped that the screening of the film would increase the flow of tourists to the region, and they were not mistaken - our and foreign tourists eager for the exotic rushed to Teriberka. 
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Especially a lot of Chinese come who hunt for the northern lights. They sincerely believe that if a child shines at the moment of conception, then a great destiny awaits him. And they are very offended if there is no radiance. 
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In the years that have passed since the premiere, four hotels, a hostel, a restaurant were opened in the village and the third Arctic festival "Teriberka. New Life" was held. In 2016, Teriberka entered the top twenty popular tourist destinations of the year. 
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The bridge connecting Teriberka and the neighboring village of Lodeynoye was built in the late 80s of the last century, before that people crossed from one bank to another along the river of the same name. Previously, in two villages there was a school and a kindergarten, now they remain only in Lodeynoye. 
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The village of Teriberka has been known since the 15th century. In these harsh, wild places, Russian people came to catch cod, herring, catfish, capelin, hunted the beast.
At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, a real settlement arose here: there were two churches, a parochial school, a lighthouse, and the first hydrometeorological station on the Murmansk coast. 
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With the establishment of Soviet power, fishing collective farms, a dairy farm, and a reindeer herd appeared in Teriberka.
After the Great Patriotic War, Teriberka actively developed and even became a district center, which, in addition to various kinds of enterprises, had its own school, hospital, kindergartens, a large store, and a library.
In the late seventies, people began to leave. This happened not only here, but throughout the country: from small villages people moved to the city for a better life. And the economic crisis in the 1990s completely led the village into decline: enterprises closed, problems began in housing and communal services and the social sphere.
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Fishing collective farms and artels in Teriberka closed long ago: industrial fishing in these places is forbidden for some reason. Local fishermen, of whom there are very few left, can catch seafood for their own needs, but not for sale. 
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Ship cemetery on the way to Lodeynoye. 
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Throughout the village now there are skeletons of abandoned, then destroyed, then grown into the ground buildings. 
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IN best years five thousand people lived in Teriberka, and now there are less than a thousand. Two hundred people from dilapidated houses moved near Murmansk. Those who refused to leave Teriberka were given apartments in a new three-story building in Lodeynoye. 
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You can walk from Lodeynoye to Teriberka in 40-50 minutes, five is enough by car.
On the other side, near the power line, was the house of the protagonist of "Leviathan" Kolya, but only steps to the pier remained from the set. 
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The bus from Murmansk runs four times a week in the evenings, the journey takes more than 4 hours.
Usually augers clear the road in front of the bus. If you're not lucky, you can get stuck in the line for many hours in the winter ... 
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The biggest problem that tourists have brought to the locals is that prices have risen in shops. And now many people bring food from Murmansk, they buy 5-7 thousand for a week, here these products would cost almost twice as much.
In the store, the saleswoman forbade taking pictures: "They take a picture, and then they write nasty things on the Internet ..."
What nasty things can be written about an ordinary store, I don’t understand. 
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An ordinary residential building, there are several of them. 
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There was a beautiful wooden house, for some reason it was sheathed with siding and it lost its charm. 
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A room in "Teri" costs 3200 with breakfast, in the private sector housing from 500 rubles. 
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The building of the former school has long been abandoned, but inventory and hundreds of books have been well preserved in the classrooms. 
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Rear facade of the school. 
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You can get inside both from the main entrance and from two spare ones. But time was short, some other time... 
Teriberka is cut in half by the "Gazprom" road. It passes through the entire village, past the dump of old Zhiguli and the cemetery, through a mountain crevice and out to a small bay. The road was supposed to connect Teriberka with the Gazprom gas liquefaction plant, but the plant was never built. 
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In March-April, beluga whales and killer whales approach Teriberka, chasing cod into the sea. Once we saw a blue whale here. Whales appear infrequently in the bay, but they can be seen in the open sea all spring. 
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When there is snow all around, snowboarders go to Teriberka, starting from spring - kitesurfers. Most tourists are in June-August, when the air warms up to 20 degrees and above. Recession from September to December. And then the Chinese come for the northern lights... 
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In the summer, the third Arctic festival "Teriberka. New life" was held in Teriberka. One of its founders said he wanted to "breathe life" into the village and turn it into a "paradise". 
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Three thousand people came to the festival. The organizers set up a campsite on the seashore, staged scenes, invited artists, and arranged several lectures. While some were talking about urbanism, others were boating on the sea and watching birds, others were watching circus performances, and others were swimming in icy water.
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Urbanists from the USA, the Netherlands and Russia have prepared a "Master Plan for Teriberka Ecovillage". They proposed cleaning up Lodeynoye, installing children's and playgrounds, sports equipment on the streets, organizing 25-45 places where you can relax or take shelter from the weather, and build up a new village with two-story houses.
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The authors of the concept propose to divide Teriberka into two parts: the ethnoterritory and the territory of dachas. On the ethno-territory, by the sea, build one-story houses, like those of the coast-dwellers, and two-story boarding houses, outwardly similar to barracks, put up antique wood warehouses and telegraph poles. The second territory is proposed to be divided into land plots from 4 to 15 acres for summer cottages. Urbanists also propose to create a warning and evacuation system in case the hydroelectric power plant breaks through.
34
For tourists, investors are going to build a gas station in the village - now the nearest gas station is 120 kilometers away, in Murmansk. The gas station on the coast of the Barents Sea will be designed not only for cars, but also for snowmobiles and other equipment. 
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Cemetery of old Zhiguli and a view of Lodeynoye on the other side of the bay of the same name. 
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The polar night in the village lasts for 43 days (from December 1 to January 12), and during the full moon, the moon rises and sets twice a day. 
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Illustration for the title photo - in a moment Tanya fell waist-deep into a snowdrift. 
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The only cafe-restaurant at the camp site with Moscow prices may not serve - we just got on a lunch break in the middle of the day (!)
A cup of fish soup - 300 rubles, tea from a bag 50, coffee 150. 
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P - patriotism. 
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To bark - easily! 
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Here and there we were constantly accompanied by a pair of dogs - black and white. 
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The Teriberka River at the confluence with the Lodeynaya Bay. 
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The low tide exposed the sandy shore. 
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An illustration for a movie. 
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Berth. 
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Temple. 
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Abandoned on Red Street. 
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It's only three o'clock in the afternoon, it will soon start to get dark and it's time for us to leave. 
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Ordinary Russia, we have thousands of such villages, but not everyone is lucky to be featured in the cinema and become a tourist attraction.
I would like to believe that the plans of enthusiasts are destined to come true. 
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If you like to travel, appreciate the untouched beauty of the harsh northern nature, want to see the Barents Sea and find out where the film “Leviathan” was filmed, then you have a direct road to the village (Murmansk region).
Main transport - car
I went to Teriberka only a couple of times and both times by car. Getting here is quite simple, and the journey takes a little over two hours.
Filling stations
There are no gas stations along the route, so before leaving, do not forget to fill up a full tank and a canister. There are no filling stations in Teriberka itself.
Road Murmansk-Teriberka
Because before entering (E105 highway), a new two-level interchange has been under construction for several years, follow the signs carefully. You need a pointer to Teriberka. Further, without turning anywhere, move along the Serebryanskaya road.
The road itself is a normal two-lane road. The quality of the asphalt is average, there are holes, mounds. In some areas, roadsides are marked with orange poles with reflective notches on top. They serve to guide drivers during the polar night and during bad weather conditions in winter.
On the way, you will meet one settlement - Severomorsk 3, which is part of the Severomorsk city district.
The asphalt road will end in about 90 km. According to the sign, turn left and the remaining 42 km will be shaking along a rolled dirt road with gravel. It will not be possible to particularly accelerate on it, the average speed of cars is usually 30-40 km / h. Only the beauty of the endless tundra, the mirror-like surface of the lakes can compensate for all the inconveniences.
and here is such an unusual installation on the side of the road - the guard of Teriberka (to the right of the road, after the dam, about 26 km after the turnaround).
At the entrance to Teriberka, the road forks. To get to the waterfall, see the stone beach and the position of the coastal battery, turn left to the former village of Lodeynoye. If you want to see the village, turn right across the bridge. Then the road will take you to a beautiful sandy beach.
By train
There is no railroad in this direction.
By plane
Air communication in this direction is not carried out
By bus
Public transport does not go to Teriberka every day. In winter, it sweeps the road. Therefore, it is better to check all the information in advance with the dispatchers of the bus station, which is located in the city center near the railway station.
Schedule
Usually the bus to Teriberka (No. 241) leaves in the evening on odd days of the week (at 17.40 or 18.00), and leaves early in the morning (7.00) on even days. Travel time - 4 hours. Ticket price - 343 rubles.
The most unprofitable way is by taxi
A taxi will take you anywhere and anytime, but if you are willing to pay a lot of money. You can use the services of local taxi services or an international system for searching and booking car transfers. The cost varies around 3-4 thousand rubles. or from 1000 rubles per person in an 8-seater minibus
In general, there are two ways to get to Teriberka.
1. Fly / drive to Murmansk, and then by bus to the village. I do not know the schedule, but as they said, he goes a couple of times a week and costs 400 rubles.
2. Get into the car and drive some 2000 km))
That's exactly what I'm talking about car travel. Perhaps my post will be useful to someone.
You can get from Moscow to Murmansk by two roads: along Leningradka and along Yaroslavka. We chose Yaroslavl because it is still much less crowded than Leningradka, and I didn’t want to spend extra money on paid sections either.
So let's go...
The road can be conditionally divided into 4 sections, I will describe each section separately.
1. Moscow-Vologda. We drive along the Kholmogory highway (M-8).
The main thing is to skip the flea market at the exit from Moscow, and after Pushkino the track usually goes well. On the way, from the window of the car, you can look at Yaroslavl, but the route bypasses Vologda along the ring road. Of course, you can go to Vologda along the way, but the roads in the city leave much to be desired, we popped in for lunch and, to be honest, we were very sorry.
However, if time is not limited, then it is worth visiting Yaroslavl and Vologda, although in this case it would probably be wise to stay in Vologda for the night.
2.Vologda-Medvezhyegorsk
The route is 620 km long, with virtually no traffic. The speed of movement is determined only by the love for the car and the depth of the pits on the road. It is because of this piece of road that most of the owners of "puzoterok" prefer to go through St. Petersburg. For off-road vehicles and similar vehicles, the route is quite convenient for itself: no traffic jams, there are practically no residents and traffic cops.
The main thing to consider is that this road is very busy with gas stations, so it’s better to calculate the need for gasoline in advance. The main part of the road passes through the picturesque Karelian forests, almost lifeless villages occasionally flash past the car window.
There is a small town Pudozh 430 km from Vologda.
This is about the middle of the way from Moscow to Teriberka, so I would advise you to stay there for the night. We spent the night at the "Uyut" motel (it stands almost on the highway). You can book through Booking, but it's easier directly. Double economy costs 1600 rubles. There are more comfortable rooms, they are a bit more expensive.
Nearby there is parking and a cafe. We specifically planned our route on two trips (in November and now) in such a way that we would stop here to eat. The food here is really tasty, the price tag is quite adequate (the average check per person for lunch is 450-500 rubles, you can take a business lunch for 250). I highly recommend the Finnish fish soup, hodgepodge and kalitki with millet.
To date, the asphalt surface of the Vologda-Medvezhyegorsk road leaves much to be desired .. although dreams come across long stretches of almost perfect asphalt. Usually at the end of these "highways" there are valiant uncles from the traffic police with radars. And there are also a lot of road repair sites, so it will probably not be scary to ride here in the "puzoterki" soon.
Another problem of this section turned out to be toilets, or rather their complete absence (usually toilets at gas stations, but here you can get from gas station to gas station until you get there ...). It’s easier for boys in this regard .. but for young ladies ((In the summer, of course, you can run into the bushes, and in the winter you need to clear the road to the bushes with a shovel. In general, according to my observations, as "bushes" people used with might and main occasionally coming across bus stops, or rather small ones patches behind them.Not good, of course, but there were no diapers with me.
In general, advice to young ladies - either diapers, or not to drink liquids))
3.Medvezhyegorsk - turn to Teriberka
From Medvezhyegorsk you go to the "Kola" highway, connecting St. Petersburg and Murmansk. The length of this section is 770 km.
All the benefits of civilization are already here: gas stations, motels, good asphalt and very little traffic.
If you need an overnight stay, then I would advise the Greenwich Hotel in Kandalaksha - cozy, inexpensive, the price includes a pretty decent breakfast. Book directly by phone.
Not far from Kandalaksha there is Observation deck overlooking the White Sea (coordinates 67.123663, 32.5235588)
If you want to see the Khibiny or ride on skiing, then it is worth stopping by in Apatity and Kirovsk.
And, of course, it is this route that crosses the line of the Arctic Circle, as a stele standing by the road will inform you about. True, it costs only one hundred sides of the exit from the Arctic, but people do not take a steam bath and turn around to make themselves with a typewriter against the background of the sign.
In general, the Kola track is very picturesque, and if you are in the right place at the right time, you can take almost fabulous landscapes right from the road
4. Well, the very last section of the path is the road from the highway "Kola" to Teriberka or the track "Serebryanka", length 120 km.
The first half of the route, to the village of Tumanny, is asphalt, and then the usual primer begins. To be honest, I don’t know how it is in summer, but in winter you can drive through it without problems at all by any car, the main thing is that the road doesn’t get covered with snow and you don’t have to wait for a grader.
It is very important to remember here that the last (!!!) gas station on the Kola highway is slightly ahead of the turn, i.e. you need to drive a little towards Murmansk, then turn back. The only inhabitant on the road to the village is a couple of closed military camps, such as Severomorsk-3, i.e. There are no gas stations on the road or in the village itself.
Depending on the speed of movement and your strength, you can get from Moscow to Teriberka in 25-30 hours of pure travel + stops for food, refueling and overnight.
The only thing you should not forget about when driving in winter is that the road can be very slippery and then any mistake can end sadly.
I will write about where to stay in the village itself next time.
Teriberka is located northeast of Murmansk, about 120 kilometers away. After turning from the asphalt road to the dirt road, the tundra begins, and not a single photograph can convey the impression of these endless expanses. In front of the village, on the pass, there are panoramic views of the Teriberskoe reservoir. It is worth walking along the river, it flows among the steep stone banks and looks very impressive.
Teriberka, waterfall
Once there was a rich fishing village, but now it is almost abandoned. The village itself makes a depressing impression - a huge number of destroyed houses, boats are rotting on the shore. By the way, it was here that the film Leviathan was filmed, and when you look at the dull ruins, it becomes clear why the main character drinks all the time. But they come here, of course, not for the sake of abandoned houses, but for the sake of local landscapes. The most picturesque places are located on the coast - sandy beaches, rocks and small stone islands near the coast.
In addition to Teriberka itself, it is worth stopping by the nearby village of Lodeynoye and taking a walk from it to the north, towards the coast. Although Lodeynoye is also called New Teriberka, the impression from the village is no better than from the village itself. The same ruins, only a little more inhabitants. The road starts at the very end of the village, but is only suitable for SUVs with a high seating position. Here the scenery is completely different. Lakes surrounded by hills, red cliffs that break almost into the sea and endless bays. On the cape itself, about five kilometers from the village, there is a very beautiful waterfall and an old coastal battery, on which you can climb.
Village surroundings
In the last 2 years, the New Life festival has been held here. The program of the festival does not particularly stand out from huge amount similar events throughout Russia - music, master classes, sports competitions. I really hope that the organizers of the festival will be able to achieve their goal and attract tourists here not only for the few days for which it is held, since it is not at all easy to breathe "new life" into an almost abandoned village.
Due to the fact that the winds often blow here, these places are becoming more and more popular with kitesurfers. Moreover, it is one of the few settlements on the coast of the Barents Sea, which is quite easy to reach by car. Therefore, here you can often meet divers.
Eat detailed description car trips to Teriberka with photos.
Coordinates:
Teriberka: 69.163497, 35.142355
Lodeynoye: 69.188626, 35.115384
Rusty boats.
Waterfall: 69.203210,35.066289
Another place you can stop by if you have already arrived here is Dalnie Zelentsy. Of course, it cannot be said that this village is located nearby (it is about 100 km from here), but by the standards of the Kola Peninsula, the distance is not too great, and the places there are also very beautiful.
How to get to Teriberka?
By car: from Murmansk you need to leave along the highway p11 "Serebryanka" and drive along it for about 90 kilometers. Then you need to turn left onto the dirt road towards Teriberka. Turn coordinates: 68.855906,34.861808. Then you need to go along the dirt road or until you turn right into the village itself, or straight ahead, to Lodeynoye.
On a country road running along the coast, you can get from Novaya Teriberka to the waterfall. There is only one road, it is almost impossible to go astray.
By bus can be reached from Murmansk. He goes every other day, you can see the schedule. The fare in 2014 was 331 rubles.
